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Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp

Apprehension T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arcane Saw T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitter Route, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cabana Boy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candy-O T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Captain Crunch S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Day Dream T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Dispensary, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dogpatch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flakey Floont T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flower Quarter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greaser, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hasting's Cutoff T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor Direct to Super Slab T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lemon Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lime Line T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Loose Lucy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Lucid Dream T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Mr. Natural T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over 'ed Power Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phee-nix T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Pickpocket T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Quantum Mechanics T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Real Men Eat Eggs T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Remention T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rosy I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rough Roof T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Roving for Love T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Schizophrenia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senora (??) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Senorita T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shadow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Spoon, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strangle Hold T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Stray Stud T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sub Slab T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Suparete T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Natural, aka Dr. Thrill T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Super Slab Direct Start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tiny Line T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Toys for Tots T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Velvet Hammer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vertical Smile T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waking Sleep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Zombies on the Lookout T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Type: Trad
FA: Suggested by R. Briggs and Levin
Page Views: 1,122 total, 5/month
Shared By: slevin on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

There are so many great linkups in Eldorado..some take on a personality beyond the scope of any individual pitch of the combination. One of my favorites is a linkup of two classic 70s trad 5.11 routes, Rover and Love Minus Zero- with a little preamble to get the nerve wires firing. Climb "Suparete" (described elsewhere) to begin. From the top of the Lower Ramp find the base of Ruper. Climb Ruper until out R of the corner, nearing the Ruper Crack, and belay. Now climb at 5.11c the steep arete that forms on the left of the large flake which has the Ruper Crack as its right border. This pitch (Roll Over Rover) is a compelling face climbing challenge with some thin gear to three bolts. The clip-ins...are just fine. Belay at nice big bolts atop a nice ledge i.e. Ruper belay below and L of the Ruper Traverse. Now climb up, eventually trending L in a slanting crack system (5.10 R) to the obvious break in the roof above- a ramp leaning out right across the roof- which is climbed with some ingenuity (and long slings) past a good bolt and some runout 5.9+ above. A long pitch, but if you runner your gear right should not cause undue rope drag hardships. Skid down the Upper Ramp portion of the Upper Meadow and find the base of T2. L of T2 is a beautiful, lichenous wall, steep and appealing, which yields a half-rope length of excellent 5.9+ climbing before nearing a ledge to the L with rap slings. Rather than belay there, climb into the obvious, L-facing corner above, a poorly protected 5.10a section, just off-balance enough to require digging for the right level of concentration and balance. Belay below the imposing roof with a crack splitting it, up and to your L. The roof is what most people would consider the crux of the linkup (5.11c PGish), and is pretty pumpy compared to those gym 5.11s. An exciting, gripping pitch to lead- or to follow! Above the roof follow Upper Redgarten nebulous terrain to the top and the East Slabs descent. This combo certainly covers some exquisite Eldo-terrain, and provides a nice remembrance of 70s glory-days 5.11. Alternatively this link-up could be called Roving for Zero, depending upon which side of the romance coin you happen to be at.

Protection

Include RPs or HBs, and aliens or TCUs. Cams to 3". Slings and carabiners. A nice edging shoe would help.

Photos

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Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
Hang a long runner on the bolt on the roof of Rover so that your second can do the moves. Otherwise the bolts at their feet once they pull the moves and the rope is pulling them back off the roof. Also, long arms are useful to clip this bolt for the leader. I think the bolt is in a bad place (better than no bolt however). Nov 18, 2001
Interesting link-up. Oct 23, 2001
Malcolm Daly
Boulder, CO
Malcolm Daly   Boulder, CO
That would be a cool linkup. Roll Over Rover is superb. That first pitch of Love Minus Zero is one of the finest pitches at the grade in the canyon and gets no traffic at all. I don't remember it as being too runnout, just that holds that you can't see from below appear right when you need them and you got to get fiddly with the gear. Is that sideways pounded-in stopper still protecting the Love-0 roof?

This whole link-up can be done at a grade easier by climbing Super Slab to start and finishing right on T-2 rather than left on the Love-0 roof. Oct 19, 2001