Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Drew Spaulding with Dan Hackett, December, 13 2014|
|Page Views:||1,196 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Drew Spaulding on Dec 19, 2014|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Pitch 1: start in the corner system just up hill of the Slimy Spoon's start and just downhill of the "Slime Monster" overhang. An interesting(5.8) start with tricky gear leads to a long 5.7 runout. Move left to cross the Slime Monster and climb the steep, blocky face out left(5.8) below Slime Monster's upper roof. Step up on the Slimy Spoon's traversing ledge and bust out to the right on beautiful face edges for a long, runout 5.7+ section to gain the thin crack above. Belay at the base of the classic Slimy Spoon's 2nd pitch.
Pitch 2: step out right as for "Vertical Smile" but instead power up and left to gain the diagonal system (5.9) that takes some good gear. Now you make wild moves to gain the arete that is formed by the Slimy Spoon's dihedral. Balancy and exciting moves on the arete bring you up to the Vertical Smile crack for 10'. You can choose to finish numerous ways. I like to climb out left to finish with the "Fork Finish" which puts you right at the summit of the "Lower Ramp"!
This is a perfect position to continue up toward Rosy Crucifixion and its neighbors....