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Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Apprehension T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Arcane Saw T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bitter Route, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Cabana Boy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Candy-O T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Captain Crunch S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Day Dream T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Dispensary, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dogpatch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flakey Floont T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flower Quarter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Greaser, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Hasting's Cutoff T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Kor Direct to Super Slab T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Lemon Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lime Line T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Loose Lucy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Lucid Dream T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Mr. Natural T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ms. Pac-Man T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Over 'ed Power Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Phee-nix T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V4 6B R |
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Pickpocket T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Quantum Mechanics T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Real Men Eat Eggs T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Remention T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rosy I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Rough Roof T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Roving for Love T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Satyricon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Schizophrenia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Senora (??) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Senorita T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Shadow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slime Monster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Slimy Spoon, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strangle Hold T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Stray Stud T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sub Slab T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Suparete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Super Natural, aka Dr. Thrill T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Super Slab Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tiny Line T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Toys for Tots T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Velvet Hammer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vertical Smile T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Waking Sleep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Zombies on the Lookout T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: |
Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m)
Fixed Hardware
(1) |
| GPS: | 39.9309, -105.28548 |
| FA: | Mike Brooks '82 |
| Page Views: | 825 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on Jul 12, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Day Dream is probably best left as a toprope, as the crux is not really protected and the rock is poor. Toprope after climbing Shadow or Flower Quarter, or traverse on to this ledge from the climber's trail just below Rewritten. This line is easy to pick out by locating a piton with grey webbing hanging off of it just above the roof.
Pick a variety of starts: choose from a slab just above the wooden staircase, or a short steep dihedral uphill and left of the slab. Gain another huge ledge about 20 feet up. From here, climb loose face with a lot of lichen up to a large 5 foot roof. Pull the roof with sidepulls (they feel loose) up to big jugs at a point just below the mentioned piton. Continue up fun, clean face with hueco-like jugs to a small tree, then finish up to the ledge.
Belay from a big tree. Walk off left from here.
Photos
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