Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m)
FA: Larry Marquardt, Chris Reveley, 1973
Page Views: 2,435 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Dec 16, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

A variation of a variation, this route deserves better. It's an independent line with a sustained upper wall and good moves. The upper wall is steep and intimidating with a closed-off thin crack, but there is gear everywhere, hidden holds, and decent rests. This should be the direct start to Super Slab as its difficulty is more in keeping with that of Super Slab.

Rossiter calls this 10c s, but the gear is excellent, although pumpy at times to place, and occasionally tricky. Erickson calls it 10-. I'd say it may be a 10c effort, but with moves in the 9 and 10- range.

It appears that the original Super Slab Direct aid line started on the 11c that is now known as Super Slab Direct and finished on the upper half of the line I'm describing here. But I'll describe this line with an easier, more consistent and independent start.

Start: On the left edge of the Suparete face is a thin crack system. Start directly below this at a right-facing groove that becomes low angle just above. This is where the scramble up to the Lower Ramp begins. Just left of the start is the start of Super Slab Direct with a pin a short ways off the ground.

Climb the groove to a roof. The low-angle section is runout but easy. Step right around the roof, get a piece to guide the rope, and step back left. You may be able to run the rope over the roof, but I was concerned about rope drag and sharp edges. Climb up to a fixed pin that can be backed up. The hardest technical move may be the move above the pin. Above that the crack closes off, but it takes a good small brass nut and a bomber bigger nut above. Continue to a shallow right-facing corner and up to a bulge. Good cams, red Camalot size, protect the reach over the bulge. Optionally place another piece (but it's hard to hang around) and make a move right to the easier climbing at the top of Suparete. Top out at the base of Super Slab. There is one bolt where you top out, and you can get gear in some big blocks.

Rap of the large tree down and right with a 60m rope that doesn't quite reach the ground, but close enough.

Protection

Double brass. I used Astros and HB offsets. Single or double nuts to about 1/2". There were a couple of great HB offset placements. Double or triple Aliens from green to red or equivalent. Bring one set smaller in case you see a placement I didn't. Single or double bigger cams to red Camalot. 20 slings and draws including a bunch of long ones. With this gear you can lace it up. If you're real solid at this grade you can get by with singles of everything.

Photos