Type: Trad, TR, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: P1. D. Ferguson, 1974? P2. Rob Candelaria
Page Views: 1,258 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 12, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is on the lower tier of the West side of Redgarden Wall. Approach via the standard trail, stopping just before hitting the long wooden staircase section of the trail. You are some short distance above the popular "Mr. Natural" and just below the bolted "Unknown 5.10c."

P1. Climb by starting in a slightly obtuse, right-facing corner with a strange crack in it. Stem up past where the crack runs out using a hidden foot on the right. Without the hidden foot, the moves are 5.11 and the fall could be a close call. Continue up in the corner and on the face to the right on somewhat thin moves to reach a [second] right facing feature, a short corner beginning where a slab cuts in and ending as a roof cuts back out just above it. The underclimgs here should easily protect on small tricams or TCUs 0.75"- 1.5". Finish up above to a set of anchors up and left in the broken band of rock. The shuts are in good condition but are set far apart in the roof.

Please use long slings if you plan to TR to avoid the hard stress of an "American Triangle" that would be the result of a direct thread. Likewise, consider rapping off instead of lowering off to reduce the forces as well.

P2. From Anonymous Coward: This is the second pitch of Mickey Mouse Die-rect up through the maroon roof band above the double-bolt belay. Though it gets a 5.12a VS rating in Rossiter's guidebook, it's pretty light-touch compared to the John Arran routes (Over'Ed Power Line, etc.) down the hill that are given the same grades.

You can string pitches one and two together, just make sure to put long slings on the belay bolts to reduce rope drag. Climb up to the base of the roof, fish in some mank, and traverse right until you can stretch up and clip some sort of fixed, battered TCU-thing (back this up if you can). Thuggy moves on good horns lead to a fractured jug/block at the lip, then easier ground takes you to the Vertigo ledge, where you can belay off a tree.

Protection

A few TCUs, to 1.5" a few small tricams and a set of nuts. The route is runout in spots that might be 5.8 or so. You can TR from Coldshuts above an to the left, or just up and right from "Unknown 5.10c."

Per Anonymous Coward for P2: small TCUs (Metolius purple through red), stoppers, RPs, a couple of bigger cams.

Photos

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