Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Larry Marquardt and Chris Reveley
Page Views: 997 total · 8/month
Shared By: Larry Marquardt on Aug 31, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route begins at the end of the first pitch of the Direct Start to Super Slab in an incipient crack above a 2' to 4' high piece of deadwood. The crack ends about 20 or 25 feet up. The route goes straight up from the top of the crack and to the Lower Ramp on very small holds. The rock is clean and solid. The rating is based on what I was generally capable of at the time, but may be erroneous (harder).

Location

Start about 20 or 25 feet right of the second pitch of the Direct Start to Super Slab. The deadwood may no longer be there, but the crack is the only feature between the old aid line (erroneously attributed to me and Chris Revely) and the sharp arete to the right.

Protection

There is one tiny brass placement in the crack. Otherwise there is no protection. I would advise you to take this pitch *very* seriously. It deserves its X rating! On the first ascent in 1973, a 165' rope caused the second to have to climb up a way in order to set a dubious belay. Take a 60 meter rope!

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Larry Marquardt
  5.11a/b
Larry Marquardt  
  5.11a/b
P.S. Jim Erickson has the route description but not the rating (my fault) right in Rocky Heights, 1980. I'd give this four stars if it were better protected. Aug 31, 2009
Larry Marquardt
  5.11a/b
Larry Marquardt  
  5.11a/b
Hiked up to the area today and saw unequivocally that the route Chris and I did was virtually the same as Super Arete. Not claiming FA here, couldn't care less, but that's where we climbed in 1973 sans bolts. This route should probably be removed as a separate climb. Cheers! Sep 7, 2010