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Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp

Apprehension T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arcane Saw T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitter Route, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cabana Boy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candy-O T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Captain Crunch S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Day Dream T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Dispensary, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dogpatch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flakey Floont T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flower Quarter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greaser, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hasting's Cutoff T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor Direct to Super Slab T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lemon Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lime Line T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Loose Lucy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Lucid Dream T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Mr. Natural T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over 'ed Power Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phee-nix T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Pickpocket T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Quantum Mechanics T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Real Men Eat Eggs T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Remention T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rosy I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rough Roof T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Roving for Love T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Schizophrenia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senora (??) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Senorita T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shadow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Spoon, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strangle Hold T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Stray Stud T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sub Slab T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Suparete T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Natural, aka Dr. Thrill T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Super Slab Direct Start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tiny Line T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Toys for Tots T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Velvet Hammer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vertical Smile T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waking Sleep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Zombies on the Lookout T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: C. Griffith, P. Ament, 1980
Page Views: 58 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 13, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is an interesting section of rock, with a mental crux - wherever that may be. The protection for at least half of the route is poor to non-existent and would not hold a fall or perhaps a hang. Then you get a few good pieces after completing the crux.

Establish a belay out on the right hand margin of the South Face, left around the corner from the base of the lower ramp. From there, start climbing up and left on small features, rising up and left past the occasional junk gear placement. Just when it seams that the climbing gets hard enough to really require gear, break back to the right to better holds above a water-streak on a blank slab. Good gear comes just after that crux. Wander up into an obtuse, right-facing corner and to the edge of the ramp, then up and left to the tree with a sling belay/rap.

Rap to the base of the sub-ramp. A 70m rope gets you all the way down, a 60m takes you to a short and mellow scramble.

Location

This route is reached from the base of the lower ramp, where one can traverse out and down around to the south face, just left of a small shallow cave, and ascends up a wandering line to reach the edge of the ramp and end at the tree anchor as for ?The Dispensary?.

Protection

A light rack of nuts and cams. You'll find opportunity to place a few pieces, the most important of which are small nuts and thin-hands and hand-sized cams.

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