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Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp

Apprehension T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arcane Saw T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitter Route, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cabana Boy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candy-O T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Captain Crunch S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Day Dream T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Dispensary, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dogpatch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flakey Floont T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flower Quarter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greaser, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hasting's Cutoff T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor Direct to Super Slab T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lemon Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lime Line T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Loose Lucy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Lucid Dream T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Mr. Natural T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over 'ed Power Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phee-nix T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Pickpocket T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Quantum Mechanics T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Real Men Eat Eggs T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Remention T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rosy I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rough Roof T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Roving for Love T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Schizophrenia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senora (??) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Senorita T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shadow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Spoon, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strangle Hold T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Stray Stud T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sub Slab T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Suparete T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Natural, aka Dr. Thrill T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Super Slab Direct Start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tiny Line T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Toys for Tots T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Velvet Hammer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vertical Smile T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waking Sleep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Zombies on the Lookout T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Gary Bratton, Curt Fry, and Stuberg 1986
Page Views: 540 total, 4/month
Shared By: Paul S on May 29, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route has its share of good and bad climbing on good and bad rock. The easiest way to find this line is to locate the start of Velvet Hammer and move left until you find the first obvious line that starts off with some huge edges (the rock is a little crumbly here). The line goes past a rotten ledge, through a small roof, and into the dihedral below the very steep, dark red wall with a discontinuous crack down its middle. The last section tackles this wall. The rock and climbing is actually really good at this part, and I thought it was worth all the junk climbing needed to get up to it. On the steep wall the protection becomes trickier the higher you go up, same with the difficulty. At the top, you can continue with several different routes, such as Slimy Spoon or Velvet Hammer which lead up to the lower ramp.

Location

Along the trail going up the west face of Redgarden, look to your right after you pass the second set of railroad tie stairs and scramble to the wall. To your right there's an overhanging hand crack above a dead tree (Velvet Hammer) and just to your left will be Remention.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
The bulging start with little or no gear at the bottom is the crux of the route and is harder than 5.8. Feb 15, 2016