Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Gary Bratton, Curt Fry, and Stuberg 1986
Page Views: 571 total · 4/month
Shared By: Paul S on May 29, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route has its share of good and bad climbing on good and bad rock. The easiest way to find this line is to locate the start of Velvet Hammer and move left until you find the first obvious line that starts off with some huge edges (the rock is a little crumbly here). The line goes past a rotten ledge, through a small roof, and into the dihedral below the very steep, dark red wall with a discontinuous crack down its middle. The last section tackles this wall. The rock and climbing is actually really good at this part, and I thought it was worth all the junk climbing needed to get up to it. On the steep wall the protection becomes trickier the higher you go up, same with the difficulty. At the top, you can continue with several different routes, such as Slimy Spoon or Velvet Hammer which lead up to the lower ramp.

Location

Along the trail going up the west face of Redgarden, look to your right after you pass the second set of railroad tie stairs and scramble to the wall. To your right there's an overhanging hand crack above a dead tree (Velvet Hammer) and just to your left will be Remention.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
The bulging start with little or no gear at the bottom is the crux of the route and is harder than 5.8. Feb 15, 2016