Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: [Robert Crumb]
Page Views: 4,007 total · 18/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Feb 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This is a nice hand crack that shoots up directly from the west Redgarden trail just before the wooden stairs...one short but fun pitch.


Bring finger to hand size cams...tree with fixed anchor 60 feet above trail.
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
This is a great warmup line. Rossiter calls it "lightning-bolt shaped", which is appropriate. To locate, look for the line running up the middle of a clean face with a big flake that you have to move to the left and up to get around. 60 above the ground is a large tree with rappell slings. Its probably 50 yards below the wooden ladder. Jan 1, 2001
Rossiter gives FA to Robert Crumb, the cartoon artist who conceived Mr. Natural back in the hippie days. So was the first ascensionist just a stoned art enthusiast or did he lead it naked with a long white beard? Aug 23, 2001
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
A great route. This route certainly can give you a pump if you fiddle with gear, all of the gear placements are great so keep climbing. Have fun with this one, a great warmup if you are doing Yellow Spur or anything higher up, Gma's, Darkness, etc.. Nov 4, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Three stars? A solid route for sure, but hardly three stars on an Eldo standard. As indicated for three stars: "This route is great. It's one of the routes that you smile as you crank the moves on the rock. The length and asthetics of the line are factors also. It's a route that, when you're done, you say excitedly to your partner, 'That was friekingawesome! You're gonna love it.' You look forward to doing it again with another friend." Aug 13, 2002
Good route but too short for 3 stars. Jan 3, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
Very fun, but short. If the jam crack were twice as long, people would be lining up for this one. Aug 24, 2003
Richard Rossiter  
Oh yeah. Led this route naked in 1978, but no long white beard. I was inspired by R. Crumbs [relentllessly] 70s character, Mr. Natural. If you haven't seen ZAP COMIX, check 'em out. Heavy stuff. OK, the route is short, but the climbing is exceptional. Hence, three stars. As for the name, Captain 4Q, see ZAP COMIX. I would also recommend watching the documentary of the life and art of R. Crumb, CRUMB. Heavy stuff. Richard Rossiter Oct 17, 2003
Saw the movie, as I never understood the underground following Crumb had.... Crumb was pathetic at best, just like his artwork. Lysergic acid diethylamide and a simple mind required. Oct 17, 2003
"Those were the best of times , those were the worst of times". FWIW , I somewhat recall my solo ascent of the Bastille Crack on Purple Micro-dot. Guess you had to have been there. :~)Sorry you're too young to remember. Oct 17, 2003
Holly Barnard
Holly Barnard  
After pulling over the flake, there is a very large jug (hard to describe but you'll know is when you see it). Towards the bottom of this jug hold there appears to be some friable rock. Looked like it could break pretty easy if one were to lay back off of it. Just a heads up....

Fun route, too short, but might be a good lead for those transitioning from 5.8s to 5.9 in Eldo since it protects so well. Jul 25, 2004
Tougher than it looks from the ground, this little pitch delivers a lot of fun and a high pump per vertical foot ratio. Nov 5, 2004
Richard Rossiter  
Mr. Natural's (the route's) only fault is its brevity. It it continued with the same quality for another 60 feet it would be a super classic. It's still super fun, even if it's short. I'm sure some guys could relate to this. As for LSD, Dr. Leary had this to say: "Psychedelic drugs cause panic and temporary insanity in those who haven't taken them." Jun 30, 2005
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
I did this a while back and recall the line to be immensely enoyable, but too short. After getting spanked on Vedauwoo 7s, I was a little shocked at how easy this went. Definitely played more to my style, being a recovering sport climber and all. And the good pro was a definite bonus - especially since I felt deathly ill and wasn't thinking clearly. Apr 2, 2008
We did this because the Great Zot/Rewritten area was a zoo and we didn't have time to wait. Protects easy enough, but I was specifically trying to jam it on lead and didn't have an easy time of it. After setting the anchor, I tried it again and cruised up as a layback. Fantastic climb, but short. A couple good rest stances. Aug 21, 2011
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
As of this past Sunday (4/11/15), there is a very angry bat living in this crack. Apr 13, 2015
Brighton, CO
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
Really fun. One of those routes that you walk by many times on the trail and smile at. More stars if it was longer. May 22, 2017