Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Charlie Fowler 1986
Page Views: 720 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 22, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Short and steep with some very questionable flakes and a spooky, but relatively easy slab finish.

Find the obvious Mr. Natural hand crack on the Redgarden West Face approach trail. Just left of that is a smooth face bounded by a left-facing chimney on right and a corner/groove on the left. Just right of the corner/groove is the Toys for Tots face with two bolts.

Climb to the first bolt, avoiding using the corner if possible, make crux moves a bit left of the bolt to good holds. Angle right on some very questionable flakes and clip the second bolt. Pull up and right onto the base of a slab. You can get some sketchy gear in a flake here. Step up onto two big footholds but with not much for the hands. Either lean right to a big flake or make some thin moves up the slab, and on to the red band.

Place some cams in a good block and in a good horizontal crack to the left. You can toprope from this anchor. The second to last person in the party should travese right to the tree on Mr. Natural and belay the last person from there. Rappel from the Mr. Natural tree.

Protection

2 good 3/8" bolts protect the hard sections. Microcams in the corner to the left protect the first clip. Above the second bolt it's runout slab at about 5.8. You can get some brass nuts and small cams to green Alien in a flake before the runout, but the flake is expanding, so the gear is doubtful. Cams from about 0.5 to #2 Camalot to set up the anchor.

Photos

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
I'm calling this S due to the long fall potential on the upper slab. I realize some climbers will disagree since the runout climbing is significantly easier (5.8??) than the crux 11a climbing, but I feel it's better to be safe and make it clear that this is not a typical sport climb with bolts very 6 to 8 feet. Oct 24, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
A few years back when I played on this route, it sported thin, somewhat spooky-looking, hangers that seemed similar to the recalled Leeper hangers...have these been upgraded? Oct 24, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
I didn't notice the hangers. They seemed normal to me. First one is a spinner, though. Oct 24, 2004
Bill Wright
  5.11a
Bill Wright  
  5.11a
Yes, the hangers are still the very thin hangers. They are probably fine, but definitely not as bomber as the bolts on other routes, like Suparete down to the right.

This route seems pretty contrived to not use the corner on the left, but it would be pretty hard without a stem over to that corner. Even with stemming over to that corner, I thought the pulls on the holds was at least 10+. it's short, though.

Definitely a heads up finish. This whole route is harder than it looks. Sep 29, 2005
David Cummings
Grand Junction, CO
  5.11a R
David Cummings   Grand Junction, CO
  5.11a R
I thought that this was a fun route, not too spectacular but fun. Oct 28, 2007
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
Bolts replaced as of 05/07/2017. May 23, 2017