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Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp

Apprehension T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arcane Saw T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitter Route, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cabana Boy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candy-O T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Captain Crunch S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Day Dream T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Dispensary, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dogpatch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flakey Floont T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flower Quarter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greaser, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hasting's Cutoff T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor Direct to Super Slab T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lemon Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lime Line T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Loose Lucy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Lucid Dream T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Mr. Natural T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over 'ed Power Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phee-nix T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Pickpocket T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Quantum Mechanics T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Real Men Eat Eggs T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Remention T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rosy I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rough Roof T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Roving for Love T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Schizophrenia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senora (??) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Senorita T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shadow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Spoon, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strangle Hold T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Stray Stud T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sub Slab T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Suparete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Natural, aka Dr. Thrill T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Super Slab Direct Start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tiny Line T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Toys for Tots T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Velvet Hammer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vertical Smile T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waking Sleep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Zombies on the Lookout T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: FTR: Charlie Fowler FHP: Josh Wharton?
Page Views: 646 total · 4/month
Shared By: josh wharton on Jan 22, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
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Description

This pretty little line is just uphill from the classic 5.8 Mr. Natural. Rossiter mentions it in his guidebook as "Phee-nix .11d," and says it is "unclear if the line has ever been led." Phee-nix Direct is essentially a boulder problem start to "Phee-nix" proper that climbs directly up into the short left facing corner of "Phee-nix" (which I believe traverses in from easy terrain to the right). Cool but scary moves lead off the ground and gain the corner above. Some small cams in the corner ease the mind before a touch of unprotected 5.10- face climbing gains the ledge above. At the ledge, it's easy to link directly into "Rough Roof .12b" (Eric Johnson is featured on this obscure steep classic in the film "Front Range Freaks") for a long--by Eldo standards anyway--memorable pitch. The landing at the start of this climb is bad and the moves a bit cryptic, so without a few pads and a spotter or two TR rehearsal's not a bad idea. If you link the start with "Rough Roof" you can create an anchor off some mid-size cams and wires to lower back to the ground (but someone will eventually have to clean the pitch on TR and walk off left on the huge ledge above). Also, linking the two pitches probably warrants 2 stars.

Protection

Small to midsize cams.

Photos

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slevin  
From talking with a few people who have done this, Phee Nix does not step in from Flakey Floont on the right, but begins with the boulder problem start described above, i.e. you climb directly into the corner from below (good hold for right, reach left to OK hold, reach right high to sloper, shallow pocket, better pocket, bucket). I still need to ask Mike Brooks (FA) about it, but I know David Light led the bouldery start in the late 1980s after he worked it on TR a bit. On toprope this felt like 5.12a to me. Oct 24, 2007
Led this onsight with a couple terrified spotters in about 2001. Probably an irresponsible way to do it, but since there seems to be a new history of the route, it seemed worth mentioning. Climbs more like a highball V4 with a 5.10 finish than a 5.12. May 13, 2014

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