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Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp

Apprehension T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arcane Saw T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitter Route, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cabana Boy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candy-O T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Captain Crunch S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Day Dream T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Dispensary, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dogpatch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flakey Floont T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flower Quarter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greaser, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hasting's Cutoff T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor Direct to Super Slab T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lemon Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lime Line T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Loose Lucy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Lucid Dream T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Mr. Natural T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over 'ed Power Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phee-nix T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Pickpocket T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Quantum Mechanics T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Real Men Eat Eggs T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Remention T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rosy I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rough Roof T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Roving for Love T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Schizophrenia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senora (??) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Senorita T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shadow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Spoon, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strangle Hold T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Stray Stud T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sub Slab T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Suparete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Natural, aka Dr. Thrill T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Super Slab Direct Start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tiny Line T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Toys for Tots T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Velvet Hammer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vertical Smile T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waking Sleep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Zombies on the Lookout T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: Charlie Fowler (1986)? Mike Brooks, '82?
Page Views: 1,263 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Jul 31, 2001 with updates from Gregger Man
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route lies just up the hill from "Mr. Natural" and can been found easily by looking for 2 bolts on a short, slabby wall just off the trail. The crux comes at you right off the ground getting past, and to, the second bolt, very nice face/slab moves getting to this section, then cruise to the piton before topping out, there is a 2 eyebolt anchor at the top which can be used to lower, you could probably also walk off the route to its left, and set a toprope this way as well.

It is a nice alternative to most of the routes on this section of the Redgarden Wall. You may want to stick clip the first, but the holds are better than they appear from the start. Have fun with this one.

Protection

2 bolts, 1 piton to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tried to on-sight this on Sunday- both my partner and I got spanked. We both generally make very short work of 5.10. It's thin, sharp, and tricky. The holds are hard to see and harder to stick to. Granted, we were both tired...Still, the moves seemed awful hard for 5.10c... I honestly believe that this route is much harder. It reminds me of "The Unlead" except that it's harder than that too. 5.11??? Or maybe I was just having a bad day?

That said, there was one hold up and right above the first bolt that was obviously broken in the not too distant past. Maybe that used to be a bigger hold?

Good, different, thin. Oct 14, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
This is definitely a height dependent one. Shorter climbers find it harder. Taller climbers find it easier. 5'10" with +2 ape makes it feels 10c. My ole buddy Steve 5'7" found it quite challenging. Flexibility can help. Balance is important. Oct 19, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Tony, are you sure you weren't on "Toys for Tots (11a/b)", which is also left of Mr. Natural and has 2 bolts?? According to Rossiter, "Unknown 10c" has 2 bolts and then a piton. I have climbed one of these routes but it was a long time ago, all I can remember is it is hard to find an anchor at the end of the pitch ... Oct 21, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Verified. I was on the 2 bolts one pin, complete match to topo on text. Saw Toys for tots over to the side. Leading theory is a broken hold by to the right of the second bolt. Second leading thoery is I just couldn't figure this one out and got spanked. Either is possible, as there is evidence to support both a broken hold or that I am a goof ball.-T. Oct 21, 2002
I agree with Tony on this one. In its current state (actually I climbed it about a year ago), I think this climb is more like 5.11a/b(?). It is a short boulder problem pitch, but it is sharp and quite difficult, I think. Even the first clip is pretty exciting.

Bill Oct 22, 2002
Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
5.10d
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
5.10d
Balancy, intricate, thin, difficult crux makes this a must do little short route that has basically toprope protection for leading the hard moves. There is an optional 1/2 size Friend placement between the second bolt and the pin.

I think this is solid 5.10d. Seems to be a little to hard for 10c when compared with numerous other cruxes of that grade. Apr 7, 2003
David Hous
Boulder, Colorado
David Hous   Boulder, Colorado
We did this route today and found it very interesting; I'd call it 10c/d or so. I found clipping the first bolt to be the trickiest spot, just because of the potential of falling on to the trail! Once clipped, we climbed it two different ways. Slightly to the right of the bolt is a good handhold and thin feet, slightly to the left of the bolt is good feet and thin hands. The left method is very balancy, the right more stenuous, but they felt about the same difficulty. The lack of chalk on this route really forced us to search out little key holds. A small Alien fits in the horizontal crack between the second bolt and the pin if, like us, you're so inclined. Jun 29, 2003
Shane Zentner
Colorado
  5.10c
Shane Zentner   Colorado
  5.10c
Climbed this yesterday and enjoyed it. I'm 5'9" and found the right hand reach to be very 'reachy' indeed. The crux starts at the ground and goes to the second bolt. After that, the climb eases up a tad. I put in a blue Alien between the second bolt and the piton in the horizontal 'crack' for added measure. Short and sweet. Jan 19, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
5.11a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
5.11a
Lenny Miller led this yesterday by stick clipping the first bolt and then climbing slightly right of the bolt and pulling really hard on the good hold at the base of the tiny, left-facing corner. I followed it completely differently by pulling on a two tip pocket with my right hand and rocking up and left to end up standing and in balance on the higher part of the starting ledge. I then smeared up on crimps and stepped far right. Both ways seemed very hard for 10c judging by the noise Lenny was making and my own experience with the left sequence. May 4, 2009
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
Charlie was indeed the FAist. I know he had a name for it, damned if I can remember it. Sep 10, 2011
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
This is listed as Quadrille in the new book. FA Mike Brooks, '82 (whoever put it up, it's pretty fun). A nice short route to do at least once.... You all know you look at it every time you walk by.... Sep 10, 2011
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
Heeheh, it's .10c if you're 6'6". Shorter than that, I can easily see it feeling harder. Apr 27, 2012
Keith Earley
Portland, OR
  5.10b
Keith Earley   Portland, OR
  5.10b
Maybe I just had a good day, but this didn't seem to hard for me today. (6'2" with +2 ape) beta I used: once matched on that reachy hold out right, there is a great sidepull 1 foot underneath the 2nd bolt. I brought my feet high onto a sloping ledge at my knees, and once I stood up, I could lean into the wall + continue to the horizontal crack.

Felt waaay easier than Santa Ana (Captain 4Q), which we had toproped just before. I guess that's "5.9+" for ya though.

This was my first 5.10 lead in Eldorado, so I'm not too sure of the grade. Apr 14, 2013
kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
Nice little route. 10c sounds right. Dec 29, 2013
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
  5.10d PG13
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
  5.10d PG13
I'm inclined to agree with those stating it is harder than the posted rating. I'm not quite 5'6", and I took quite a few hangs on lead to work it out. Went back up on TR to retrieve the anchors and cruised it easy, so who knows? Definitely sharp on the fingers through the crux. Apr 19, 2014
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Gonna have to join the "way hard for 10c" group on this one. Pulled moves between the bolts that involved yarding on a sharp crimper with the right hand while hand-foot matching a tiny pebble and sloping dish with the left. Definitely some missing rock on the small, left-facing flake above the first bolt, is that recent or cleaned on the FA? Feb 14, 2015
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
The piton has been replaced with a glue-in Wave bolt per the public vote earlier this year. The pin had contact with the rock only at the bottom of the hole for about 0.75". I tapped the pin up/down/left/right, and each direction it would move about 1mm and stay there. One strong outward tug and 'schwing!' it was outta' there. Drilled the same hole deeper and placed a Wave bolt glue-in. Aug 25, 2017

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