Avg: 2.6 from 11 votes
|FA:||[Kyle Copeland, FFA Dale Goddard]|
|Page Views:||4,267 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Oct 11, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
This route is on the small (40-foot high) buttress below and south of the Roof Wall, right above the start of the trail up to the west side of Redgarden Wall. It's just down and right of a thin crack (Breakfast of Champions) and can be recognized by a large grey half-inch bolt partway out the overhang and by the bounty of chalk on the flakes underneath the lip.
Aid out to the 1/2 inch bolt via a rusty pin and an old star drive on the left. Clip it and lower down, as the actual climbing begins down and right. Burly slap moves take you up the funky, overhanging rib to a final lip encounter on poor slopers (don't bother with this route if it's hot out). Another bolt or two gets you over the slab and up to the rusty chain anchors.