Type: Sport Fixed Hardware (7)
FA: [Kyle Copeland, FFA Dale Goddard]
Page Views: 3,253 total · 15/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Oct 11, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the rarest of rare -- a 5.13 sport route in Eldorado Canyon. While not as good as its compatriots Your Mother or The Web, it's still a good tick for those who like bouldery routes (the business is only 20 feet long).

This route is on the small (40-foot high) buttress below and south of the Roof Wall, right above the start of the trail up to the west side of Redgarden Wall. It's just down and right of a thin crack (Breakfast of Champions) and can be recognized by a large grey half-inch bolt partway out the overhang and by the bounty of chalk on the flakes underneath the lip.

Aid out to the 1/2 inch bolt via a rusty pin and an old star drive on the left. Clip it and lower down, as the actual climbing begins down and right. Burly slap moves take you up the funky, overhanging rib to a final lip encounter on poor slopers (don't bother with this route if it's hot out). Another bolt or two gets you over the slab and up to the rusty chain anchors.

Protection

Five to six quickdraws.

Photos

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
13a/b? Sounds good to me. This route also has a fairly hairy slab at the top. I remember bringing a stopper or two to supplement the bolts. Also this is easy to work out on TR. In fact there's a great 5.11 corner just to the left to warm up with on TR. Almost like Rifle. Oct 11, 2001
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
Although the guidebook credits Charlie with this route, I'm afraid I have to take primary responsibility. Kyle Copeland did it on aid and suggested that I should do it as a free route. To make a long story short, Charlie joined in the crusade after I had been at it a while and together we worked out the crux moves but couldn't continue to the top. The crux bolt has been replaced and two more added, I believe, by Dale Goddard, who I believe also deserves credit for the first ascent. Cheers, Joe Oct 12, 2001
I am curious, does the line start directly below the gray bolt, or is it "allowed" to traverse in from the left following the aid bolt section? Both seemed tough, but obviously not the crux so I wondered if it matters to anyone? Apr 22, 2002
It matters only if it matters to you. The crux is indeed higher than the section you are concerned about. It is common practise to work this on TR, and on the redpoint have the first 2 pieces (a pin and a bolt, I think) clipped to start. P.S. get on this before it gets much hotter. Apr 23, 2002
Agreed, those sloper holds above the lip require good temperatures!

Apr 23, 2002
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
To answer the question about where the route goes... I placed the "aid" bolt without actually knowing how the moves would work out. Eventually I started down to the right which is the standard way. I saw a couple of very strong lads a couple of years back who did it directly from the first bolt which looks real hard but saves a lot of distance. May 23, 2002
Ben Randolph
Boulder, CO
 
Ben Randolph   Boulder, CO
 
I thought this was a pretty good boulder problem. Ok for a route needs to be longer. Fun either way. May 8, 2007
Great route, fun crux. 8a Good cold weather route, sun 12pm-1pm 2pm 3:30pm Feb 4, 2008
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
  5.13a/b PG13
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
  5.13a/b PG13
Great winter climb (2 windows of sun and protected from the wind). Exciting/spicy runouts hence the "S" rating. More fun than The Web! Feb 10, 2008
kiff
  5.13a
kiff  
  5.13a
This is the most condition dependent route I've been on in smeldo. Considerably easier than The Web. Ya gotta start on the ground after getting the first bolt clipped, none of that aiding bs.... Mar 20, 2012
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.13a
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.13a
Props to Joe Crotty for replacing some old, manky bolts on CC, on Sunday, 3/29/2015.

Mar 31, 2015
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
A couple of notes on the fixed hardware: it was bolted by Joe Huggins after Kyle Copeland did the FA and told Joe it would be a good free climbing candidate.

The pin was installed by Charlie Fowler while vying for the FFA with Joe Huggins. This enabled Charlie to aid to the second bolt and lower our for redpoint burns with the bottom half pre-clipped. This is the most common approach currently for redpoint attempts or stickclipping the glue-in with the ring from below.

The glue-in bolt with ring was installed by Joe Crotty to replace the old bolt which was a 17mm hex head drop-in w/ Petzl aluminum hanger. The bolt was epoxied in place. An attempt was made to remove it but failed. Joe Huggins first bolted the route in 1986, but more than likely, the original bolt was replaced with the epoxied drop-in by Dale Goddard (i.e., FFA) in 1990 at roughly the same time the key hold below this bolt was epoxied. The old drop in bolt was patched over with a gray epoxy putty and is about 6" left and 3" up from the new glue-in bolt.

I don't know who added the now first bolt, but if I had to guess, I would say Goddard. Dec 11, 2018