All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes

Lipsync

Name: Lipsync
Rating: 3.3

5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British

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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes

L › R R › L A › Z

	(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1-
	Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
	Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
	Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
	Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
	Fire and Ice T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
	Huck Off T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Private Idaho S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Scary Canary T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Wasabeline S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R

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Type:	Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (1)
GPS:	39.93112, -105.2846
FA:	David Light
Page Views:	1,553 total · 5/month
Shared By:	Orphaned User on Apr 7, 2002
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon's falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit cpw.state.co.us/state-parks…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This is a hybrid/link-up type route but it actually covers some pretty cool terrain and must be one of the most overhung routes in Eldo.

Start on Kloeberdanz, cranking through the crux 11a roof until you're perched on the slab over the lip. Move up and left onto the hanging arete and clip a bolt.

Power out the arete to the lip of roof and clip another bolt, then hand traverse left along the good rail at the lip of the roof band. Clip a final bolt and continue left (crux), eventually joining Guenese at the good lieback flakes over the roof.

Use long draws on this route to prevent rope drag. It's easiest to clean this one on top-rope.