Type: Sport
FA: Dan Hare
Page Views: 271 total · 1/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Feb 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is Steeeep, the definition of jug-hauling. The start is a little spooky, up mank rock to a dicey looking, balanced block. Make sure your belayer is not directly below, take a deep breath, yard on this block, and keep yarding. This would get two stars except the crux seems to be clipping the lower-off bolts. These are right in the middle of a hard move, which is (for someone with a tiny brain like myself) pretty distracting: Clip and grab, or keep going? Best to pretend they are not there, because there are jugs three or four feet higher.

Protection

Several bolts to a lower-off.

Photos

Chris Archer
  5.11c
Chris Archer  
  5.11c
I'd agree with Crusher's assessment: the anchors are in the middle of the crux. Would've been a better route if the anchors were moved up and another bolt added beneath them. Otherwise, strenous and somewhat inobvious sequences. Jun 14, 2004
Glen Charnoski
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Glen Charnoski   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
I also agree with Crusher about the anchor "crux" moves. I lead the thing, only to be staring at the anchor bolts holding a tenuous pinch 8 inches from the anchor, for what seemed like eternity, not knowing what to do, only to have no other option than to just fall off. Later, I realized I should have gone on past the anchor to the jugs to clip the anchor. Apr 5, 2015
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
Whoa, this one was a really fun surprise, too! Short but packs a punch. Be careful with that anchor clip...but get on it! Mar 11, 2018