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Routes in Coney Island

Angry Dragon V7 7A+
Another Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Badger Traverse, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bait, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dampened Enthusiasm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Der Letzte Zug S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Die Reeperbahn S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Feeding the Beast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fly Swatter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Trap S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gagger With A Bone S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Joy Ride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lucky Strikes Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Fanatic S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pri-Moe T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Quintet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Badger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Runaway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twist and Shout S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Under the Boardwalk T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Work It On Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V6+ 7A
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Chuck Graves, 12/26/05
Page Views: 529 total, 4/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Dec 25, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Another Way is a trad climb left of Runaway that follows a decent line of discontinuous thin cracks at the bottom and then obvious corners and cracks at the top to a tree on the skyline. However there is some loose rock, some lichen on the rock surface, and a couple of big thumper blocks that are scary given the possibility that no one has ever touched them. These factors, plus some sketchy gear at the bottom, lead me to give this a bomb rating. With some cleaning it might be a one-star route.

This is a possible first ascent; however, there was what seemed to be chalk in a pocket below a ceiling on the upper half. That point is reachable from Runaway. On the other hand, there were several very loose rocks on the lower half, and I had to excavate the dirt from several key gear placements. So perhaps someone has previously climbed the upper half, maybe while exploring where the top of Runaway should go.

Approach: walk right below the Lower Tier to its right side, then up an obvious climber's trail to the right side of the Upper Tier. The obvious right angling crack on the right of the crag is the start of Runaway. Another Way starts just to the left of Runaway at a nice constructed platform.

The route: climb right of a dirty gully and left of a thumper, left-facing corner just left of the start of Runaway. Climb a slot in the right side of the roof (#3 Camalot). Move left and up (good small cam in a horizontal) to good holds that lead to the bottom of a narrow pillar. This pillar thumps a bit. There is a good red Alien and a small brass to the right of the pillar. Climb the right side of the pillar to reach a jug. If you can't reach the jug, you may have to climb further right, and then this would be the crux at 5.10 something. Continue on easier ground, angling right, aiming for a prominent left-facing corner. Climb the corner and then up and left to a hanging block in the ceiling. Climb carefully past the block and then up some rounded holds to the top. There are some obvious variations to the left of the upper part of this route.

Descent: from the belay tree, scramble a short distance down and climber's right to a meadow. Hike downhill climber's left to the bottom of the left side of the Upper Tier. Hike back below the Upper Tier to the start.

Protection

Doubles from brass to #2 Camalot, single #3 Camalot. Perhaps only singles needed in finger-sized cams. There were two spots I wanted another #0.75 Camalot, having already placed two, so you might want to bring an extra in that size. Double ropes useful, especially for the bottom where the route zig zags a bit.

Photos

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