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Routes in Coney Island

Angry Dragon V7 7A+
Another Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Badger Traverse, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bait, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dampened Enthusiasm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Der Letzte Zug S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Die Reeperbahn S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Feeding the Beast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fly Swatter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Trap S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gagger With A Bone S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Joy Ride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lucky Strikes Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Fanatic S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pri-Moe T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Quintet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Badger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Runaway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twist and Shout S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Under the Boardwalk T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Work It On Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V6+ 7A
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 365 total · 5/month
Shared By: SteveZ on Mar 3, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Scramble up ledges and blocks to the base of the hanging arete. Mantle onto a big ledge, clip high, and relax. Meanwhile prepare for the powerful crux moving onto and grappling up the arete on slopers. When the arete leans right, you can either follow it for a pumpy finish or roll straight over and paddle up easy climbing to a ledge to clip the anchor. It is a fairly awkward finish either way, though it is somewhat contrived to stay right.

This has pretty solid rock throughout aside from the discontinuous beginning and an avoidable detached bulge up top.

Location

It is the furthest left route on the upper crag. Climb the sharp arete that makes up the end of the wall.

Protection

4 bolts to a two bolt anchor. It has a very high first bolt which can be stick clipped from the blocks left of the arete.

Photos

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SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.12b
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.12b
If anyone knows the FA info, let me know and I'll edit it in.

For what it's worth, my partner and I thought the crux was pretty stout (though brief) for 12b as listed in Bob D's book. Probably somewhere in between Joy Ride and Der Letzte Zug difficulty wise. Mar 3, 2013

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