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Routes in Coney Island

Angry Dragon V7 7A+
Another Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Badger Traverse, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bait, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dampened Enthusiasm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Der Letzte Zug S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Die Reeperbahn S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Feeding the Beast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fly Swatter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Trap S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gagger With A Bone S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Joy Ride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lucky Strikes Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Fanatic S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pri-Moe T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Quintet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Badger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Runaway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twist and Shout S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Under the Boardwalk T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Work It On Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V6 7A
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Josh Gross
Page Views: 181 total · 1/month
Shared By: Josh Gross on Jan 6, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This has a new first bolt, then it shares the first bolt of "FS" (double length dog bone nice). It then traverses right, and the climbing is independent to a new anchor. There are 5 bolts, and it has fun, techie, face climbing. There is a hard crux!

Location

This is on the lower Coney Island Crag to the right of Fly Swatter.

Protection

5 bolts.

Photos

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Scott Hahn  
 
There is mass quantities of lichen everywhere, and crumbling holds through the crux. I personally felt this climb's crux was incredibly forced. The climb would be much more independent if it just went up the right ramp a couple more feet. You could skip the crux and then have good 5.10.

FYI beware of the loose blocks on the start of the climb. Although not massive, they definitely could end your partner's climbing day. May 8, 2010

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