Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jesse Guthrie
Page Views: 1,990 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jesse Guthrie on Mar 12, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The route normally started high up off big holds on the lower Coney. It is about 5.10ish to the first bolt then steeper and harder after the small rest block in the middle. Then climb thin finger edges up the steep face, steep around the arete to 2 bolts.

Location

On Lower Coney Island, this is in the middle of the steep, overhanging arete.

Protection

5 bolts...

Photos

Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.13c
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.13c
Okay...so obviously I got to the break in the climb! Then I enter the dihedral hold the left good hold. Go up right hand to a gaston undercling thing, left hand to the undercling. Then, I bump my right hand to the 2 finger crimp, and can get my foot around the arĂȘte! Does anyone know any beta from here or any alternate beta for this climb? It would be greatly appreciated! Nov 11, 2013
Sort of different beta and cont...
From the break, left hand to good hold and match, then right hand to two finger crimp, left hand to undercling. Then I go right hand up to the gaston in the slot, left hand comes up to a sharp crimp just to the left of the right hand (this seems to be a foot hold and not used much). Go left again to the good pinch, some good footwork will make those moves easier. This beta may not be the best considering there were a few chalked holds out right I didn't use. Sep 13, 2014