Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Coney Island
|
Aeromax S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Angry Dragon V7 7A+ |
|
Another Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
|
Badger Traverse, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Bait, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Coney Island Clipper S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Cyclone S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Dampened Enthusiasm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Der Letzte Zug S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Die Reeperbahn S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Feeding the Beast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Fire Patrol S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Fly Swatter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Fly Trap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Gagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
|
|
Gagger With A Bone S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Joy Ride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Launch Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Lucky Strikes Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
New Fanatic S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
|
|
Pri-Moe T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Prong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Quintet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Reach of Faith, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Red Badger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Runaway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Sling Shot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Thunderbolt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Tickler T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Twist and Shout S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Under the Boardwalk T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
|
|
Work It On Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V6+ 7A |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Jerry Moffat |
| Page Views: | 2,832 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Nov 9, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting
Details
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Located at the right end of Coney Island, Gagger climbs a dead vertical section of water streaked rock that is split by a large roof. For the most part the rock is very good, but the section below the roof is slightly flaky. This will change as the route receives more attention.
Cerebral sequences, delicate footwork, and uncomfortable liebacking lead to a long reach over the roof and a strenuous mantle on micro crimps. From here, the route eases up, but save some energy for the meandering slab and the exit moves.
To reduce rope drag caused by the roof, use a long draw at the bolt in the roof and the previous bolt.
Cerebral sequences, delicate footwork, and uncomfortable liebacking lead to a long reach over the roof and a strenuous mantle on micro crimps. From here, the route eases up, but save some energy for the meandering slab and the exit moves.
To reduce rope drag caused by the roof, use a long draw at the bolt in the roof and the previous bolt.
Location
It is just right of Give A Dog A Bone, at the right end of Coney Island. Most people start on a small ledge at the base of the climb.
Protection
Quickdraws and a 60 meter rope. Since this route starts about 20 feet up on a ledge, watch the end of your rope. Unfortunately, this route shares anchors with Give A Dog A Bone.
4 Comments