Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jerry Moffat
Page Views: 1,580 total · 11/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Nov 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Located at the right end of Coney Island, Gagger climbs a dead vertical section of water streaked rock that is split by a large roof. For the most part the rock is very good, but the section below the roof is slightly flaky. This will change as the route receives more attention.

Cerebral sequences, delicate footwork, and uncomfortable liebacking lead to a long reach over the roof and a strenuous mantle on micro crimps. From here, the route eases up, but save some energy for the meandering slab and the exit moves.

To reduce rope drag caused by the roof, use a long draw at the bolt in the roof and the previous bolt.

Location

It is just right of Give A Dog A Bone, at the right end of Coney Island. Most people start on a small ledge at the base of the climb.

Protection

Quickdraws and a 60 meter rope. Since this route starts about 20 feet up on a ledge, watch the end of your rope. Unfortunately, this route shares anchors with Give A Dog A Bone.

Photos

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Ryan Malaty
Broomfield, CO
 
Ryan Malaty   Broomfield, CO
 

DO NOT SPORT CLIMB THIS ROUTE. IT NEEDS TO BE REBOLTED.

They are coming out of the wall. Mar 12, 2007
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
The anchors on this route are fine. One hanger is missing, but two still remain including a brand new one. Jun 11, 2007
I hung or fell on every one of the bolts on this route in March, 2015. They seem safe to me. Mar 30, 2015