Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas and Moe Hershoff
Page Views: 947 total · 5/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This route lies on the far right-side (east-face) of Coney Island.Locate three bolts up a steep, blocky face. Climb past the bolts tending left into a chimney/flared slot. Clip a bolt and make a long reach into a finger crack. Climb up steep rock on good jams to a good rest. Crank up past the last bolt making a dicey move to the anchor.


Five bolts and small to medium gear will get you to a two-bolt anchor.


Make sure you bring Friends up to #3. This is not a sport route. It is well worth doing, but watch out for the loose block. Nov 13, 2002
Chris Archer
Chris Archer  
For many years, Bob has done an awesome job in opening numerous routes of all grades in the area. Unfortunately they can't all be gems, and IMHO this one falls into that category. After being bombarded with a steady stream of lichen, dirt, pebbles, and assorted other detritus, I got the coveted "second refused to follow! (or lead)." Maybe this route will clean up after significant traffic, but at present it is quite dirty. Some other minor points: the 4th bolt is placed too high to be clipped before beginning the crux stemming, necessitating small gear in a loose flake. Lowering the bolt would adequately protect the moves into the finger crack without having to risk ripping the gear in the movable flake. Also I'd agree with Kent's comment regarding the rack, in addition to small to finger-sized cams, I also placed #2, 2.5 and 3 Friends. Finally, why are the anchor bolts 4.5 feet apart from each other?! Is there another route planned beneath the leftmost of the bolts? Jun 23, 2004
Andy Moore  
Once this cleans up a bit more, I think it deserves a star (or at least not a bomb). There are some cool moves up the crack and through the slot. Heed Chris' advice about gear in the loose flake before the 4th bolt. If you have a #3.5 Camalot or so, though, it provides bomber pro right below the loose flake. In retrospect, the move up to clip the 4th bolt wasn't bad, but I'm glad I had some gear. Jul 2, 2004
kyle lefkoff
kyle lefkoff  
Climbed it 6/11 with Alkaitas leading, who jettisoned some impressive loose blocks from the base of the chimney. It is a worthy line in my view, and really a trad route with a bolt at the crux. Jun 13, 2005
Nick Fury
Boulder, Colorado
Nick Fury   Boulder, Colorado
That little chimney is really fun, you can completely stem out and rest for a minute. Jun 26, 2009
Dougald MacDonald  
Don't let the negative comments put you off. My partner and I both led this and thought it was well- protected and very fun. Perhaps it has just cleaned up a lot.

May 2015 addition: I've done this twice now, and I think it's nearly a 3-star route. Yes, it has some suspect rock entering the crux (don't place gear in the loose, thin crack/pillar thing below the bolt...you can get a bomber #3 Camalot in the slot under the bulge just below this). Most of the route is reasonably clean, and the climbing is varied and fun. Mar 24, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
It's still shedding. Sewing this up: #3.5 Camalot, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, red Alien. If you want to make it a touch harder, move left at the obvious jug/horizontal crack and do the arete briefly. Mar 16, 2013