Type: Sport, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Rick Leitner, Brian Hansen
Page Views: 6,563 total · 36/month
Shared By: Brian Hansen on Sep 11, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

Located on Coney Island's upper tier, this route is located about 80 feet to the right of the hard sport route, Gagger. Start on a blocky ledge beneath the right end of a roof system and to the left of a broken, left-facing corner system. Climb past three bolts to a right-slanting crack/seam. Leave this at bolt seven and climb a series of steep headwalls with good rests in between. Eleven protection bolts total. Somewhat run-out for the 5.8 leader, the protection can be supplemented by carrying a set of Stoppers and a few small cams (a #2 Friend is useful for the final stretch to the anchors), though this is unnecessary for people climbing at harder grades. The climb ends at two Fixe rings at the 120-foot level. A 70-meter rope is needed to descend to the ground from here. There is an intermediate rappel/lowering station (two rings) at bolt six for those with a shorter rope. Three stars, relative to other Boulder Canyon sport routes, for length, steepness, and evenness at the grade.

Eds. this route's comment section has been the site for some submissions in the "don't be a jerk" range that has prompted "aggressive" deletions and editing. A line has to be drawn somewhere. Please refrain from further escalations. Thanks for your understanding & cooperation.

Protection

11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Intermediate rappel/lower station also has two rings. Optional stoppers and small cams will supplement the bolts.

Eds. this can probably be led on gear alone.

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