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Routes in Coney Island

Angry Dragon V7 7A+
Another Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Badger Traverse, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bait, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dampened Enthusiasm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Der Letzte Zug S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Die Reeperbahn S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Feeding the Beast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fly Swatter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Trap S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gagger With A Bone S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Joy Ride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lucky Strikes Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Fanatic S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pri-Moe T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Quintet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Badger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Runaway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twist and Shout S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Under the Boardwalk T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Work It On Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V6+ 7A
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Type: Sport
FA: Dan Hare, 1990s
Page Views: 769 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Suggest Change]

To find this route, on the lower buttress at Coney Island, look for a short 3 bolt route, just right of an arete to the east side of the lower buttress at Coney Island. The first bolt may be a little tricky to clip, as most, as the route seems to trend on the arete, while the bolts are on the face a little to the right. Don't fall while clipping any of these bolts, as you would meet the arete face to face (not fun). Overall a 0 star route, seems like someone was desperate to put something a little easier at this crag, but shouldn't have wasted the time. The crux may be the 2nd bolt area, clipping here. Do the 5.11a which is directly in front of you when coming up the trail. (Superb)

Protection [Suggest Change]

Three bolts to two bolt chain anchor. (Up and left of the route)

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Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I've done way worse than this. If you pay attention, it's pretty safe. Sep 17, 2001
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
 
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
 
Peter, I just came back to this crag to see if there were any additions to the site. Noticed your comment and thought you may share with us some other worse routes than this. I have yet to come across one sport climbing in the canyon, at least compared to the other 50-60 routes I have done here. Seriously. Sep 25, 2001
Fly Swatter is worth a star at least. It is fun. Technically easy, but kinda pumpy for being just vertical. Good warm-up. The 5.11a referrred to is of course The Bait. Now you mention it, just what is the worst sport route in Boulder Canyon? Once, after doing Fly Swatter, we tried the route just left, which seemed truly bilge. Seemed to be bolted just to avoid the obvious holds to left and right. Maybe this is one of the worst routes? Hmmm, actually some of the squeezed-in boltfests on Cornerstone or Sport Park must be worse. Feb 10, 2002
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Thanks for the response, Jeff. Some routes that are pretty bad:

Both routes on the Upper Bowling Alley wall, especially the right one (as noted by yourself).

A few natural but very lame 5.10-ish routes at the Sport Park.

Most of the easier climbs at Sherwood Forest (apologies to Richard Wright).

That's what I can think of in the 5.10 range in Boulder Canyon. Obviously this is my opinion and doesn't imply that others might not enjoy these climbs. I don't have any real fondness for Fly Swatter, but it fits in with the nature of the cliff which is short and sharp. For me, a real sport climbing bomb has got to include most of the following: clear disregard for any later climber's safety, including loose rock, poor protection (location, quantity, and quality), and bad anchors (quality and location). Clear disregard for surroundings, including contrived or squeezed line, dangerous base, and proximity to highway. Clear disregard for aesthetics, including poor rock, lots of vegetation and lichen, cleaning scars, lots of glue, chipped holds, constantly wet rock, generic or wandering line, big jagged features, and awkward climbing. Now a lot of classic trad climbs include many of these things as part of the experience so I'm restricting this to sport climbing. And it's true that Fly Swatter has vegetation, screwy protection, and a bit of lichen. However, it also has a striking, uncontrived line, pretty good rock, and interesting climbing. I might give it a star at most, but it doesn't seem worth a bomb. A true bomb has to, in its own way be as special as a 5-star classic and just as rare. Mar 7, 2002
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Let me respectfully disagree with Steve on the route just left. Although it may appear contrived, it is actually a fun short bouldery route and certainly not the worst route in Boulder Canyon. Mar 7, 2002
I just did the route today. It was not what I expected at all. I thought it would be a scary 10c slab and it turned out to be a fun, slightly overhanging arete, with lie-backs on good holds. I guess it depends on your perspective. ;-) I'd vote to give it a star. Sep 14, 2003
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
 
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
 
Definitely worth a star, and not a bad warm-up for the area. Sep 9, 2007
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
I agree this route is awkward, the first bolt is high and tough to clip if you are short. Took a clean 12 footer from the 3rd bolt past the first. Any further would have put me on the ledge. I agree the 11a looks to be a better warm up. Does anyone know the name/rating of the climb to the right? Apr 16, 2009

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