Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Mary Zuvela
Page Views: 1,002 total · 5/month
Shared By: Ray Snead on Oct 18, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Is this the steepest 5.9 sport route in Boulder Canyon? Quite possibly so, and it is certainly one of the best new moderate additions in quite some time.

Approach by walking under the lower Coney Island climbs past Dampened Enthusiasm, then move up a bit and continue right then down a grassy slope until you see bolts. Upper Coney is above you - do not go there.

Start as for Pri-Moe. Climb scaly but okay rock past 3 bolts, and step right onto a big shelf. Gaze at the steep and intimidating headwall, then cast off on subtle but amazing jugs and swarm to the top. Many people will involuntarily whoop somewhere in this section. Great position and outlandish climbing make this an instant classic!

The route faces almost due east and gets great sun in the morning.

Protection

7-8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
5.9-
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
5.9-
A steep, exciting and fun route. The crux headwall is height-dependent and may be harder than 5.9 for shorter climbers. I'm 6'2", and was just able to reach a key handhold to pull myself onto the ledge atop the headwall.

A note on the approach: this climb and Pri-Moe are on a crag about 100 yards right of Lower Coney Island.From Lower Coney Island, head right and follow a path that traverses a grassy hillside to the crag, then head around the right side and up the hill a bit until you see the bolts.

Steep, exciting and fun.

Crux is height-dependent; probably harder than 5.9 for shorter climbers. Oct 29, 2002
What a fun route! This website rocks! I would put in my own 2 cents regarding finding the climb, take the right fork, go past Lower Coney Island. Upper Coney Island is now above you. One could reasonably argue that this climb is on Upper Coney Island, just split from the main face by an upward traversing gully reminiscent of the ramp on Bell Buttress up to Cosmosis. To find No Name, basically just catch up with the Upper Coney trail after passing Lower, keep going right, staying close to the wall, the wall and trail will pass a low point and then turn left and head uphill to the north, finding the climbs shortly. We did the "down grassy" slope and ended up in Road Bomb City poking around the top of a roadcut cliff. To be avoided. May 15, 2003
Chris Archer
  5.9
Chris Archer  
  5.9
This route is on the far right side of Upper Coney Island. The upper half of this route is enjoyable and climbs intimidatingly steep rock on a series of amazing jugs that if they were at the Sport Park you'd think were manufactured. The lower half seemed rather dirty, uninspiring, and, at one point, somewhat runout. Jun 23, 2004
Andy Moore  
 
The upper section of this climb is a lot of fun, but the bottom part (which is shared with Pri-Moe) is not. There is at least one handhold (which is probably used by most people to clip from) on the lower part that won't be there for long. Be wary of the rock on the lower part. Jul 2, 2004
richard magill
  5.9-
richard magill  
  5.9-
Worth doing but not a classic. The bottom half was a little chossy. The moves on the top half are great, although quite easy.

Aug 5, 2004
kyle lefkoff
  5.9-
kyle lefkoff  
  5.9-
Climbed this excellent new route on the east fin of Coney Island on 6/11 with Snipes, McClenehan, and Alkaitas. Consensus was BC 9- or Gunks 5.6. Good position and a quality rock, well equipped. Jun 13, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
5.9-
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
5.9-
The route seemed much easier than the last time I did it; Boulder Canyon 9-.

I agree with Kyle; this would be a 6 or 7 in the Gunks: much easier than Thin Slabs Direct (7+) or Modern Times (8+). Oct 22, 2005
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
 
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
 
Betsy and I finally went up and did this route today. Really fun!!!
It is a jugfest with great position and movement, and the bolts are exactly where they should be. The bottom half looks like choss but climbs as well as the top.

As for the grade, who knows, and who cares? I would send a 5.8 leader up there anytime. Sep 14, 2007
Nick Fury
Boulder, Colorado
 
Nick Fury   Boulder, Colorado
 
Probably the best overhanging 5.9 in Boulder Canyon. Fun and pretty clean now, I didn't kick off any choss on the lower section. Finding it's a little bit of a chore though. Just keep going around to the right side of the area. Jun 26, 2009
DamageVic
Coal Creek Canyon, CO
  5.9+
DamageVic   Coal Creek Canyon, CO
  5.9+
Wow...much harder (for me) than Runaway!
Kind of a weird bouldery start w/ most of the holds seeming to go the wrong way. Lower section was OK, but the upper section (from the big ledge) was really quite cool.
The bolts are quite well placed in my opinion...thankfully- as I tested the one at the top of the headwall. Didn't manage to get it clean (this time) and couldn't figure out the moves to get off the last ledge...had to cheat here as I was out of juice. We'll be back so I can work through this one and get it clean.
A word of advice- I think that longer draws (like 17cm-20+cm) on the 4th and 5th (& possibly 6th) bolts would help reduce some of the rope drag I experienced. (as opposed to the 12cm draws I used throughout) Jul 22, 2009
I didn't like the location of the 4th. bolt. A fall from here prior to clipping the bolt would give you a pine tree enema. The bottom section is way grungy, but climbing over the top 4 bolts was very good. Mar 26, 2011
Derek Young
Denver, CO
Derek Young   Denver, CO
Great route, truly. Not sure what the latest is on it though.... We did it today and found that it's a 2 pitcher, great warmup staying in the 5.9 grade. Linking both pitches requires a 70m rope to get down in one lower, or else rap it. Draw count = 11 bolts (+2 for the anchors). Dec 15, 2013
Logan Collins
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Logan Collins   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Awesome route! Like it was made to be climbed!

The tree is annoying though. Jul 16, 2017
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
What a surprise! Stumbled upon this climb, and it turned out to be one of the best 5.9s in the canyon! Fantastic jug moves up high and a great, balancy finish! Mar 11, 2018
Kevin Corrigan
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Kevin Corrigan   Boulder, CO
  5.9
It's a too bad Coney Island doesn't have more routes below 5.11, because Runaway and Lucky Strikes Again are the best bolted 5.8 and 5.9s in the canyon, respectively. So good! You'll definitely want to tram into the other side of the rope while lowering to stay at least more out of the tree than you would otherwise. Oct 22, 2018