Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Coney Island

Angry Dragon V7 7A+
Another Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Badger Traverse, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bait, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dampened Enthusiasm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Der Letzte Zug S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Die Reeperbahn S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Feeding the Beast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fly Swatter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Trap S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gagger With A Bone S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Joy Ride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lucky Strikes Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Fanatic S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pri-Moe T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Quintet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Badger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Runaway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twist and Shout S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Under the Boardwalk T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Work It On Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V6+ 7A
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dan Hare, 1994
Page Views: 1,078 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


26 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a superb route located on the lower wall of Coney Island. When you arrive at the base, this will be the furthest route left on the lower wall. The bolts will converge to a dihedral where the climbing is very fun. Place a piece in the corner, (may still be a small stopper there from my partner taking a fall on it), and stem your way to the anchors. The bottom of this route is harder than it looks from the ground. There are also bolts to the left of the start that could be used but would need very long slings. Just go straight up under the obvious corner. This is a great route.

Protection

4/5 bolts & 1 optional piece (small stopper) - 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Dan Hickstein
  5.11a
Dan Hickstein  
  5.11a
From the ground, this does not look like much, but it climbs really well! Good stemming that feels like Eldo.

A few nuts and a ~0.5" cam protect the top. I would not climb it without the gear. The climbing at the top is hard and the fall might not be clean without the gear. Sep 15, 2015
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
 
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
 
Mid-size nut or small TCU sews up the top. Good route. Oct 27, 2013
I would not call the wired nut for the finish "optional." Seemed essential to me! Mar 24, 2012
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
I concur. A short, but excellent route. Harder than it looks. Thoughtful moves with holds facing the wrong way -- this is not a pull-n-go type of route. I placed a piece of gear a few feet above the last bolt to protect the last hard move. Sep 13, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Dan is the man. Another diamond in the rough. Mar 5, 2002