Type: Sport
FA: Noel Childs, Dan Hare
Page Views: 1,011 total · 5/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Feb 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is way right (and way short!), trending up a left-facing, shallow and steep flake/dihedral to jugs. Despite its one star, this is a cool little pitch with not a single boring move. If the landing was flat and not a collection of jagged boulders, this could be a highball boulder problem. It may be kinda soft for 5.12a, if only because the route is so short that there are not too many complicated moves to figure out. By the second bolt is a steep and reachy powerful crux. It can be a little awkward to work the moves as both partners end up swinging in space.

Protection

Three bolts to a two-bolt lower off.

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Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Don't waste your time on this route unless your trying to tick off all the climbs at Coney Island. Many of the Coney Island Classics sit a couple of minutes above this one. As for this route, it pretty much sucks. It's short, and I remember there being pretty sharp holds. I would recommend climbing this as a highball boulder problem with a bunch of pads underneath if you're gonna do it. It had a few burly moves on it to give it a 12a rating. If you're climbing at the grade of 5.12, go up and do Joy Ride and Der Letztze Zug, both of which are super quality and sustained routes.... Apr 6, 2011
To add to the confusion on this tiny panel of rock, a fun contrivance (Wet Badger?) is to climb this route into the Badger Traverse at about the same difficulty as the Badger Traverse. Oct 19, 2013