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Coney Island Rock Climbing
Routes in Coney Island
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Angry Dragon V7 7A+ |
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Another Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Badger Traverse, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bait, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dampened Enthusiasm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Der Letzte Zug S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Die Reeperbahn S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Feeding the Beast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fly Swatter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fly Trap S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Gagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Gagger With A Bone S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Give the Dog a Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Joy Ride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lucky Strikes Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New Fanatic S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Pri-Moe T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Prong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Quintet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Badger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Runaway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twist and Shout S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Under the Boardwalk T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Work It On Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V6+ 7A |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Elevation: | 7,650 ft |
| GPS: | 39.993, -105.418 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 24,458 total · 114/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: all Boulder Canyon closures have been lifted!
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
Coney Island is often difficult to spot. It stands precipitously above the road, although it poses most hazard to drivers during the approach. All of the climbing departs from huge ledge systems that provide loads of room to maneuver without pitching rocks onto the road. Nonetheless, it is always advisable to be hyper aware of the possibility for rolling rocks into the road. The crag is split into upper and lower tiers, both being composed of arch-typal Boulder granite. The climbing is often well edged, with solid, in-cut flakes. Mostly vertical to a tad beyond vertical, difficulty often results from thin moves and big reaches on bad feet. Smearing with technical footwork are common place.
L->R:
Below Lower Tier
Angry Dragon, V7
Lower Tier
A. The Bait, 11-, 1p, gear.
B. Twist And Shout, 13, 1p, bolts.
C. Fly Trap, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
D. Flies In The Soup, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
E. Prong, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Fly Swatter, 10, 1p, 35', 3 bolts.
G. Under the Boardwalk, 8-, 1p, 70', gear.
H. New Fanatic, 11+, 1p, 65', bolts.
I. Work It On Out, 12+, 1p, 25', bolts.
J. Dampened Enthusiasm, 12-, 1p, 30', bolts.
JK. Wet Badger, 12-, 1p, bolts.
K. Red Badger, 11+, 1p, 25', bolts.
KI. Over Enthusiam, 13, 1p, connects I->G, bolts.
KI. The Badger Traverse, 13-, 1p, connects I->G, bolts.
Upper Tier
L. Feeding TheBeast, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
M. Joy Ride, 12, 1p, bolts.
N. Der Letzte Zug, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
O. Die Reeperbahn, 13, 1p, bolts.
P. Loading Zone, 10+ R, gear.
Q. Psyclone, 11+, 2p, gear.
R. Quintet, 10, 2p, gear.
S. Give The Dog A Bone, 13-, 1p, bolts.
T. Coney Island Baby, 12- R, 1p, gear.
US. Gagger With A Bone, 13, 1p, 90', bolts.
U. Gagger, 13+, 1p, bolts.
above U. Exit, 9, 1p, gear.
V. Fat Cat, 10+, 1p, gear.
W. Another Way, 9 R, 1p, 130', gear.
X. Runaway 8+, 1p, 120', bolts.
East Face
Y1. Pri Moe, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
Y2. Lucky Strikes Again, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
?. Mongouichi, 10, 2p, 300', gear.
L->R:
Below Lower Tier
Angry Dragon, V7
Lower Tier
A. The Bait, 11-, 1p, gear.
B. Twist And Shout, 13, 1p, bolts.
C. Fly Trap, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
D. Flies In The Soup, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
E. Prong, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Fly Swatter, 10, 1p, 35', 3 bolts.
G. Under the Boardwalk, 8-, 1p, 70', gear.
H. New Fanatic, 11+, 1p, 65', bolts.
I. Work It On Out, 12+, 1p, 25', bolts.
J. Dampened Enthusiasm, 12-, 1p, 30', bolts.
JK. Wet Badger, 12-, 1p, bolts.
K. Red Badger, 11+, 1p, 25', bolts.
KI. Over Enthusiam, 13, 1p, connects I->G, bolts.
KI. The Badger Traverse, 13-, 1p, connects I->G, bolts.
Upper Tier
L. Feeding TheBeast, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
M. Joy Ride, 12, 1p, bolts.
N. Der Letzte Zug, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
O. Die Reeperbahn, 13, 1p, bolts.
P. Loading Zone, 10+ R, gear.
Q. Psyclone, 11+, 2p, gear.
R. Quintet, 10, 2p, gear.
S. Give The Dog A Bone, 13-, 1p, bolts.
T. Coney Island Baby, 12- R, 1p, gear.
US. Gagger With A Bone, 13, 1p, 90', bolts.
U. Gagger, 13+, 1p, bolts.
above U. Exit, 9, 1p, gear.
V. Fat Cat, 10+, 1p, gear.
W. Another Way, 9 R, 1p, 130', gear.
X. Runaway 8+, 1p, 120', bolts.
East Face
Y1. Pri Moe, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
Y2. Lucky Strikes Again, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
?. Mongouichi, 10, 2p, 300', gear.
Getting There
Drive about 9 miles west on Canyon Boulevard. Continue west of the crag proper about 200 yards to a large pull-out on the South side of the canyon. This will drop down to the river on a brief dirt road that offers good parking and is discrete. Hike back downstream to a faint trail (the river is on the right) that heads off uphill on the North side of the canyon. The trail forks shortly with the right hand branch going to the lower cliff. Continue upwards to approach the upper cliff. You travel a distance that seems long, over some easy exposed rock in the trail. The routes begin at a small saddle and continue downhill and to the right for 200 feet or so.
Classic Climbing Routes at Coney Island
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
7 Comments
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Guidebooks (19)
But the lower tier was a pile! I was frankly shocked that someone bolted the crap out of the short, right section. In many places these "routes" would be boulder problems.... In my twenty years of climbing, that has to be the worst pile of shite I've ever seen bolted. I thought the Sport Park and Punk Rock were pathetic, but that really takes the cake!
I just wonder...does every little itty bitty piece of rock need to be turned into an over-bolted playground? Sep 12, 2003
Boulder Colorado
I don't need to save my energy to climb...I've got plenty to do both just fine thanks. Sep 13, 2003
Boulder Colorado
Sorry I'm down on a few routes, but that's just the way I feel. I never said Coney Island was a pile. In fact I look forward to heading out there and getting on some classic looking lines on the upper tier. I just think somebody got carried away a little on the lower section. Sep 15, 2003
on the road
Broomfield, CO
We set up an anchor at the top of that route, and we had a 60m rope, so we were planning on doing a multi-rep (We had to climb around the crag to get up there. There is no walk off from the top of Runaway). I rappeled down to the TR anchor... these bolts are not fully bolted in and are unsafe to tie into.
P.S. we found an old POS green Alien, funny as hell. Mar 12, 2007