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Routes in Coney Island

Angry Dragon V7 7A+
Another Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Badger Traverse, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bait, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dampened Enthusiasm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Der Letzte Zug S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Die Reeperbahn S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Feeding the Beast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fly Swatter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Trap S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gagger With A Bone S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Joy Ride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lucky Strikes Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Fanatic S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pri-Moe T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Quintet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Badger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Runaway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twist and Shout S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Under the Boardwalk T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Work It On Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V6+ 7A
Unsorted Routes:
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Coney Island is often difficult to spot. It stands precipitously above the road, although it poses most hazard to drivers during the approach. All of the climbing departs from huge ledge systems that provide loads of room to maneuver without pitching rocks onto the road. Nonetheless, it is always advisable to be hyper aware of the possibility for rolling rocks into the road. The crag is split into upper and lower tiers, both being composed of arch-typal Boulder granite. The climbing is often well edged, with solid, in-cut flakes. Mostly vertical to a tad beyond vertical, difficulty often results from thin moves and big reaches on bad feet. Smearing with technical footwork are common place.

L->R:

Below Lower Tier

Angry Dragon, V7

Lower Tier

A. The Bait, 11-, 1p, gear.
B. Twist And Shout, 13, 1p, bolts.
C. Fly Trap, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
D. Flies In The Soup, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
E. Prong, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Fly Swatter, 10, 1p, 35', 3 bolts.
G. Under the Boardwalk, 8-, 1p, 70', gear.
H. New Fanatic, 11+, 1p, 65', bolts.
I. Work It On Out, 12+, 1p, 25', bolts.
J. Dampened Enthusiasm, 12-, 1p, 30', bolts.
JK. Wet Badger, 12-, 1p, bolts.
K. Red Badger, 11+, 1p, 25', bolts.
KI. Over Enthusiam, 13, 1p, connects I->G, bolts.
KI. The Badger Traverse, 13-, 1p, connects I->G, bolts.

Upper Tier

L. Feeding TheBeast, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
M. Joy Ride, 12, 1p, bolts.
N. Der Letzte Zug, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
O. Die Reeperbahn, 13, 1p, bolts.
P. Loading Zone, 10+ R, gear.
Q. Psyclone, 11+, 2p, gear.
R. Quintet, 10, 2p, gear.
S. Give The Dog A Bone, 13-, 1p, bolts.
T. Coney Island Baby, 12- R, 1p, gear.
US. Gagger With A Bone, 13, 1p, 90', bolts.
U. Gagger, 13+, 1p, bolts.
above U. Exit, 9, 1p, gear.
V. Fat Cat, 10+, 1p, gear.

W. Another Way, 9 R, 1p, 130', gear.
X. Runaway 8+, 1p, 120', bolts.

East Face
Y1. Pri Moe, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
Y2. Lucky Strikes Again, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.

?. Mongouichi, 10, 2p, 300', gear.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Drive about 9 miles west on Canyon Boulevard. Continue west of the crag proper about 200 yards to a large pull-out on the South side of the canyon. This will drop down to the river on a brief dirt road that offers good parking and is discrete. Hike back downstream to a faint trail (the river is on the right) that heads off uphill on the North side of the canyon. The trail forks shortly with the right hand branch going to the lower cliff. Continue upwards to approach the upper cliff. You travel a distance that seems long, over some easy exposed rock in the trail. The routes begin at a small saddle and continue downhill and to the right for 200 feet or so.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Coney Island

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 59
Runaway
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Lucky Strikes Again
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
The Bait
Trad, Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 62
Joy Ride
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 23
Der Letzte Zug
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 12
Give the Dog a Bone
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
Die Reeperbahn
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 3
Twist and Shout
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Runaway
 59
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Lucky Strikes Again
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Bait
 27
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Joy Ride
 62
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Der Letzte Zug
 23
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Give the Dog a Bone
 12
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Die Reeperbahn
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Twist and Shout
 3
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Coney Island »

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Last Sunday while waiting out the rain my friends and I did a little "route appreciation" up and down Boulder Canyon. We stopped and hiked up to check-out Coney Island. The upper tier looked clean, and there are some routes we were all pretty excited about returning to climb on a better day.

But the lower tier was a pile! I was frankly shocked that someone bolted the crap out of the short, right section. In many places these "routes" would be boulder problems.... In my twenty years of climbing, that has to be the worst pile of shite I've ever seen bolted. I thought the Sport Park and Punk Rock were pathetic, but that really takes the cake!

I just wonder...does every little itty bitty piece of rock need to be turned into an over-bolted playground? Sep 12, 2003
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I think that this website needs a section for ranting about why anyone would climb at this or that cliff. Granted, Lower Coney Island isn't classic, but it isn't chipped, there are a few good hard routes, and the last time I checked no one was complaining that Boulder had too many of those. Lighten up and save your ranting energy for climbing. Sep 13, 2003
Yes, Peter, there are some great routes on the left side of Coney Island. They, however, in no way excuse the over-bolted piles of crap on the right side. It's this sort of irresponsible drilling that gets land managers' attention. Is it too much to ask when we hope that people drilling on public lands show an itty bit of restraint when choosing what to bolt?

I don't need to save my energy to climb...I've got plenty to do both just fine thanks. Sep 13, 2003
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Concerning the right side, do the routes and then decide. Sep 14, 2003
Peter Beal....c'mon, I think I can formulate a fair opinion on the subject of over-bolting and responsibility when putting up routes without climbing every route somebody decides needs to be fired in.

Sorry I'm down on a few routes, but that's just the way I feel. I never said Coney Island was a pile. In fact I look forward to heading out there and getting on some classic looking lines on the upper tier. I just think somebody got carried away a little on the lower section. Sep 15, 2003
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
Has anyone done the 13b on upper Coney Island? Would you mind dishing out the spray on whether or not it is a good line, where the crux is and all that? Thanks! Jun 1, 2004
Ryan Malaty
Broomfield, CO
Ryan Malaty   Broomfield, CO
Okay, so Mike and I got up to Coney Island, and we climbed Runaway. It is an amazing climb (some runout spots and loose rock), but to the left is a route with a bunch of quickdraws still attached to the bolts, I believe that route is "Gagger."

We set up an anchor at the top of that route, and we had a 60m rope, so we were planning on doing a multi-rep (We had to climb around the crag to get up there. There is no walk off from the top of Runaway). I rappeled down to the TR anchor... these bolts are not fully bolted in and are unsafe to tie into.

  • DO NOT CLIMB TO THE TOP OF GAGGER*

P.S. we found an old POS green Alien, funny as hell. Mar 12, 2007

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