Coney Island Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 7,650 ft | 2,332 m |
GPS: |
39.9928, -105.4181 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 57,495 total · 197/month | |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Coney Island is often difficult to spot. It stands precipitously above the road, although it poses most hazard to drivers during the approach. All of the climbing departs from huge ledge systems that provide loads of room to maneuver without pitching rocks onto the road. Nonetheless, it is always advisable to be hyper aware of the possibility for rolling rocks into the road. The crag is split into upper and lower tiers, both being composed of arch-typal Boulder granite. The climbing is often well edged, with solid, in-cut flakes. Mostly vertical to a tad beyond vertical, difficulty often results from thin moves and big reaches on bad feet. Smearing with technical footwork are common place.
L->R:
Below Lower Tier
Angry Dragon, V7
Lower Tier
A. The Reach of Faith, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. The Bait, 11-, 1p, gear.
C. Twist And Shout, 13, 1p, bolts.
D. Fly Trap, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
E. Flies In The Soup, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Prong, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts.
G. Fly Swatter, 10, 1p, 35', 3 bolts.
H. Under the Boardwalk, 8-, 1p, 70', gear.
I. New Fanatic, 11+, 1p, 65', bolts.
J. Work It On Out, 12+, 1p, 25', bolts.
K. Dampened Enthusiasm, 12-, 1p, 30', bolts.
KL. Wet Badger, 12-, 1p, bolts.
L. Red Badger, 11+, 1p, 25', bolts.
LJ. Over Enthusiam, 13, 1p, connects L->J, bolts.
MJ. The Badger Traverse, 13-, 1p, connects M->J, bolts.
Upper Tier
N. Feeding TheBeast, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
O. Joy Ride, 12, 1p, bolts.
P. Der Letzte Zug, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q. Die Reeperbahn, 13, 1p, bolts.
R. Quintet, 10, 1p, 140', gear .
S. Loading Zone, 10+ R, gear.
T. Psyclone, 11+, 2p, gear.
U. Quintet, 10, 2p, gear.
V. Give The Dog A Bone, 13-, 1p, bolts.
W. Coney Island Baby, 12- R, 1p, gear.
XV. Gagger With A Bone, 13, 1p, 90', bolts.
X. Gagger, 13+, 1p, bolts.
above X. Exit, 9, 1p, gear.
Y. Fat Cat, 10+, 1p, gear.
Z. Another Way, 9 R, 1p, 130', gear.
AA. Runaway 8+, 1p, 120', bolts.
BB. Launch Code, 11-, 1p, gear.
CC. Tickler, 10+, 1p, gear.
DD. Sling Shot, 11-, 1p, bolts.
EE. Cyclone, 11-, 1p, bolts.
FF. Coney Island Clipper, 10, 1p, bolts.
GG. Thunderbolt, 8, 1p, gear & bolts.
East Face
HH1. Pri Moe, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
HH2. Lucky Strikes Again, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
II. Aeromax, 11, 1p, bolts.
JJ. Fire Patrol, 10, 1p, bolts.
?. Mongouichi, 10, 2p, 300', gear.
Getting There
Drive about 9 miles west on Canyon Boulevard. Continue west of the crag proper about [400] yards to a large pullout on the South side of the canyon. This will drop down to the river on a brief dirt road that offers good parking and is discrete. Hike back downstream to a faint trail (the river is on the right) that heads off uphill on the North side of the canyon. The trail forks shortly with the right hand branch going to the lower cliff. Continue upwards to approach the upper cliff. You travel a distance that seems long, over some easy exposed rock in the trail. The routes begin at a small saddle and continue downhill and to the right for 200 feet or so.
Classic Climbing Routes at Coney Island
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