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Coney Island Rock Climbing
Routes in Coney Island
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Angry Dragon V7 7A+ |
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Another Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Badger Traverse, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bait, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dampened Enthusiasm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Der Letzte Zug S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Die Reeperbahn S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Feeding the Beast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fly Swatter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fly Trap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Gagger With A Bone S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Give the Dog a Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Joy Ride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lucky Strikes Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New Fanatic S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Pri-Moe T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Prong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Quintet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Reach of Faith, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Red Badger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Runaway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twist and Shout S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Under the Boardwalk T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Work It On Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V6 7A |
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| Elevation: | 7,650 ft |
| GPS: |
39.9928, -105.4181 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 56,007 total · 205/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023 - updated
Details
From W. McCurry: As of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed more info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Coney Island is often difficult to spot. It stands precipitously above the road, although it poses most hazard to drivers during the approach. All of the climbing departs from huge ledge systems that provide loads of room to maneuver without pitching rocks onto the road. Nonetheless, it is always advisable to be hyper aware of the possibility for rolling rocks into the road. The crag is split into upper and lower tiers, both being composed of arch-typal Boulder granite. The climbing is often well edged, with solid, in-cut flakes. Mostly vertical to a tad beyond vertical, difficulty often results from thin moves and big reaches on bad feet. Smearing with technical footwork are common place.
L->R:
Below Lower Tier
Angry Dragon, V7
Lower Tier
A. The Reach of Faith, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. The Bait, 11-, 1p, gear.
C. Twist And Shout, 13, 1p, bolts.
D. Fly Trap, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
E. Flies In The Soup, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Prong, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts.
G. Fly Swatter, 10, 1p, 35', 3 bolts.
H. Under the Boardwalk, 8-, 1p, 70', gear.
I. New Fanatic, 11+, 1p, 65', bolts.
J. Work It On Out, 12+, 1p, 25', bolts.
K. Dampened Enthusiasm, 12-, 1p, 30', bolts.
KL. Wet Badger, 12-, 1p, bolts.
L. Red Badger, 11+, 1p, 25', bolts.
LJ. Over Enthusiam, 13, 1p, connects L->J, bolts.
MJ. The Badger Traverse, 13-, 1p, connects M->J, bolts.
Upper Tier
N. Feeding TheBeast, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
O. Joy Ride, 12, 1p, bolts.
P. Der Letzte Zug, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q. Die Reeperbahn, 13, 1p, bolts.
R. Quintet, 10, 1p, 140', gear .
S. Loading Zone, 10+ R, gear.
T. Psyclone, 11+, 2p, gear.
U. Quintet, 10, 2p, gear.
V. Give The Dog A Bone, 13-, 1p, bolts.
W. Coney Island Baby, 12- R, 1p, gear.
XV. Gagger With A Bone, 13, 1p, 90', bolts.
X. Gagger, 13+, 1p, bolts.
above X. Exit, 9, 1p, gear.
Y. Fat Cat, 10+, 1p, gear.
Z. Another Way, 9 R, 1p, 130', gear.
AA. Runaway 8+, 1p, 120', bolts.
East Face
BB1. Pri Moe, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
BB2. Lucky Strikes Again, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
?. Mongouichi, 10, 2p, 300', gear.
L->R:
Below Lower Tier
Angry Dragon, V7
Lower Tier
A. The Reach of Faith, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. The Bait, 11-, 1p, gear.
C. Twist And Shout, 13, 1p, bolts.
D. Fly Trap, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
E. Flies In The Soup, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Prong, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts.
G. Fly Swatter, 10, 1p, 35', 3 bolts.
H. Under the Boardwalk, 8-, 1p, 70', gear.
I. New Fanatic, 11+, 1p, 65', bolts.
J. Work It On Out, 12+, 1p, 25', bolts.
K. Dampened Enthusiasm, 12-, 1p, 30', bolts.
KL. Wet Badger, 12-, 1p, bolts.
L. Red Badger, 11+, 1p, 25', bolts.
LJ. Over Enthusiam, 13, 1p, connects L->J, bolts.
MJ. The Badger Traverse, 13-, 1p, connects M->J, bolts.
Upper Tier
N. Feeding TheBeast, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
O. Joy Ride, 12, 1p, bolts.
P. Der Letzte Zug, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q. Die Reeperbahn, 13, 1p, bolts.
R. Quintet, 10, 1p, 140', gear .
S. Loading Zone, 10+ R, gear.
T. Psyclone, 11+, 2p, gear.
U. Quintet, 10, 2p, gear.
V. Give The Dog A Bone, 13-, 1p, bolts.
W. Coney Island Baby, 12- R, 1p, gear.
XV. Gagger With A Bone, 13, 1p, 90', bolts.
X. Gagger, 13+, 1p, bolts.
above X. Exit, 9, 1p, gear.
Y. Fat Cat, 10+, 1p, gear.
Z. Another Way, 9 R, 1p, 130', gear.
AA. Runaway 8+, 1p, 120', bolts.
East Face
BB1. Pri Moe, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
BB2. Lucky Strikes Again, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
?. Mongouichi, 10, 2p, 300', gear.
Getting There
Drive about 9 miles west on Canyon Boulevard. Continue west of the crag proper about [400] yards to a large pullout on the South side of the canyon. This will drop down to the river on a brief dirt road that offers good parking and is discrete. Hike back downstream to a faint trail (the river is on the right) that heads off uphill on the North side of the canyon. The trail forks shortly with the right hand branch going to the lower cliff. Continue upwards to approach the upper cliff. You travel a distance that seems long, over some easy exposed rock in the trail. The routes begin at a small saddle and continue downhill and to the right for 200 feet or so.
Classic Climbing Routes at Coney Island
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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