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Elevation: 7,650 ft 2,332 m
GPS: 39.9928, -105.4181
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 57,165 total · 201/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Coney Island is often difficult to spot. It stands precipitously above the road, although it poses most hazard to drivers during the approach. All of the climbing departs from huge ledge systems that provide loads of room to maneuver without pitching rocks onto the road. Nonetheless, it is always advisable to be hyper aware of the possibility for rolling rocks into the road. The crag is split into upper and lower tiers, both being composed of arch-typal Boulder granite. The climbing is often well edged, with solid, in-cut flakes. Mostly vertical to a tad beyond vertical, difficulty often results from thin moves and big reaches on bad feet. Smearing with technical footwork are common place.

L->R:

Below Lower Tier

Angry Dragon, V7

Lower Tier

A. The Reach of Faith, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.

B. The Bait, 11-, 1p, gear.

C. Twist And Shout, 13, 1p, bolts.

D. Fly Trap, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.

E. Flies In The Soup, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.

F. Prong, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts.

G. Fly Swatter, 10, 1p, 35', 3 bolts.

H. Under the Boardwalk, 8-, 1p, 70', gear.

I. New Fanatic, 11+, 1p, 65', bolts.

J. Work It On Out, 12+, 1p, 25', bolts.

K. Dampened Enthusiasm, 12-, 1p, 30', bolts.

KL. Wet Badger, 12-, 1p, bolts.

L. Red Badger, 11+, 1p, 25', bolts.

LJ. Over Enthusiam, 13, 1p, connects L->J, bolts.

MJ. The Badger Traverse, 13-, 1p, connects M->J, bolts.

Upper Tier

N. Feeding TheBeast, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.

O. Joy Ride, 12, 1p, bolts.

P. Der Letzte Zug, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.

Q. Die Reeperbahn, 13, 1p, bolts.

R. Quintet, 10, 1p, 140', gear .

S. Loading Zone, 10+ R, gear.

T. Psyclone, 11+, 2p, gear.

U. Quintet, 10, 2p, gear.

V. Give The Dog A Bone, 13-, 1p, bolts.

W. Coney Island Baby, 12- R, 1p, gear.

XV. Gagger With A Bone, 13, 1p, 90', bolts.

X. Gagger, 13+, 1p, bolts.

above X. Exit, 9, 1p, gear.

Y. Fat Cat, 10+, 1p, gear.

Z. Another Way, 9 R, 1p, 130', gear.

AA. Runaway 8+, 1p, 120', bolts.

BB. Launch Code, 11-, 1p, gear.

CC. Tickler, 10+, 1p, gear.

DD. Sling Shot, 11-, 1p, bolts.

EE. Cyclone, 11-, 1p, bolts.

FF. Coney Island Clipper, 10, 1p, bolts.

GG. Thunderbolt, 8, 1p, gear & bolts.

East Face

HH1. Pri Moe, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.

HH2. Lucky Strikes Again, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.

II. Aeromax, 11, 1p, bolts.

JJ. Fire Patrol, 10, 1p, bolts.

?. Mongouichi, 10, 2p, 300', gear.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive about 9 miles west on Canyon Boulevard. Continue west of the crag proper about [400] yards to a large pullout on the South side of the canyon. This will drop down to the river on a brief dirt road that offers good parking and is discrete. Hike back downstream to a faint trail (the river is on the right) that heads off uphill on the North side of the canyon. The trail forks shortly with the right hand branch going to the lower cliff. Continue upwards to approach the upper cliff. You travel a distance that seems long, over some easy exposed rock in the trail. The routes begin at a small saddle and continue downhill and to the right for 200 feet or so.

33 Total Climbs

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Location: Coney Island Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Coney Island

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 88
Runaway
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 65
Lucky Strikes Again
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 28
Pri-Moe
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Quintet
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 44
The Bait
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 33
Fly Trap
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 109
Joy Ride
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 43
Der Letzte Zug
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 27
Give the Dog a Bone
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 12
Die Reeperbahn
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 5
Twist and Shout
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 4
Gagger
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Runaway
 88
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Lucky Strikes Again
 65
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pri-Moe
 28
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Quintet
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The Bait
 44
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Fly Trap
 33
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Joy Ride
 109
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Der Letzte Zug
 43
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Give the Dog a Bone
 27
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Die Reeperbahn
 12
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Twist and Shout
 5
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Gagger
 4
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Coney Island »

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