Elevation: 7,650 ft
GPS: 39.993, -105.418 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,667 total · 161/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

Coney Island is often difficult to spot. It stands precipitously above the road, although it poses most hazard to drivers during the approach. All of the climbing departs from huge ledge systems that provide loads of room to maneuver without pitching rocks onto the road. Nonetheless, it is always advisable to be hyper aware of the possibility for rolling rocks into the road. The crag is split into upper and lower tiers, both being composed of arch-typal Boulder granite. The climbing is often well edged, with solid, in-cut flakes. Mostly vertical to a tad beyond vertical, difficulty often results from thin moves and big reaches on bad feet. Smearing with technical footwork are common place.

L->R:

Below Lower Tier

Angry Dragon, V7

Lower Tier

A. The Reach of Faith, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. The Bait, 11-, 1p, gear.
C. Twist And Shout, 13, 1p, bolts.
D. Fly Trap, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
E. Flies In The Soup, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Prong, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts.
G. Fly Swatter, 10, 1p, 35', 3 bolts.
H. Under the Boardwalk, 8-, 1p, 70', gear.
I. New Fanatic, 11+, 1p, 65', bolts.
J. Work It On Out, 12+, 1p, 25', bolts.
K. Dampened Enthusiasm, 12-, 1p, 30', bolts.
KL. Wet Badger, 12-, 1p, bolts.
L. Red Badger, 11+, 1p, 25', bolts.
LJ. Over Enthusiam, 13, 1p, connects L->J, bolts.
MJ. The Badger Traverse, 13-, 1p, connects M->J, bolts.

Upper Tier

N. Feeding TheBeast, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
O. Joy Ride, 12, 1p, bolts.
P. Der Letzte Zug, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q. Die Reeperbahn, 13, 1p, bolts.
R. Quintet, 10, 1p, 140', gear .
S. Loading Zone, 10+ R, gear.
T. Psyclone, 11+, 2p, gear.
U. Quintet, 10, 2p, gear.
V. Give The Dog A Bone, 13-, 1p, bolts.
W. Coney Island Baby, 12- R, 1p, gear.
XV. Gagger With A Bone, 13, 1p, 90', bolts.
X. Gagger, 13+, 1p, bolts.
above X. Exit, 9, 1p, gear.
Y. Fat Cat, 10+, 1p, gear.

Z. Another Way, 9 R, 1p, 130', gear.
AA. Runaway 8+, 1p, 120', bolts.

East Face
BB1. Pri Moe, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
BB2. Lucky Strikes Again, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.

?. Mongouichi, 10, 2p, 300', gear.

Getting There

Drive about 9 miles west on Canyon Boulevard. Continue west of the crag proper about 200 yards to a large pull-out on the South side of the canyon. This will drop down to the river on a brief dirt road that offers good parking and is discrete. Hike back downstream to a faint trail (the river is on the right) that heads off uphill on the North side of the canyon. The trail forks shortly with the right hand branch going to the lower cliff. Continue upwards to approach the upper cliff. You travel a distance that seems long, over some easy exposed rock in the trail. The routes begin at a small saddle and continue downhill and to the right for 200 feet or so.

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Coney Island

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 71
Runaway
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 52
Lucky Strikes Again
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 20
Pri-Moe
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 33
The Bait
Trad, Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 77
Joy Ride
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 32
Der Letzte Zug
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 16
Give the Dog a Bone
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
Die Reeperbahn
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 5
Twist and Shout
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 4
Gagger
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Runaway
 71
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Lucky Strikes Again
 52
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pri-Moe
 20
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport
The Bait
 33
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Joy Ride
 77
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Der Letzte Zug
 32
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Give the Dog a Bone
 16
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Die Reeperbahn
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Twist and Shout
 5
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Gagger
 4
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
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