Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jessie Guthrie, 1990
Page Views: 4,045 total · 25/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Jun 6, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The name is German for "The Last Course". This is a decent sport route on the upper tier of Coney Island Crag. It is the line immediately right of Joy Ride, and left of the 13b face/arete.

Make tricky moves up to the high first bolt, then move up under the roof and get ready for the crux. The crux is a difficult 3-4 move boulder problem getting past the 2nd bolt. Get a good rest after this then continue on sustained, pumpy 12- to the anchors. For reference, this route is WAY more difficult than Joy Ride, though only a letter grade harder... definitely recommended for those who whine about soft BoCan ratings.

Protection

6 or 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Jesse Guthrie
Prague Czech Republic
Jesse Guthrie   Prague Czech Republic
Actually the name is German for "The last pull" or "the last toke" amongst other meanings...Jesse. Jul 12, 2005
EJM
  5.12c
EJM  
  5.12c
I think this is one of the finest sport routes in Boulder Canyon, definitely my favorite for the grade...not trivial. Mar 8, 2010
pefue
Erlangen, Germany
pefue   Erlangen, Germany
"The last pull" is the correct translation. Dec 17, 2010
On 3/28/12, the bolt on the crux clip (above the bottom roof) was loose. I finger-tightened but didn't have a wrench. There is also a rapid link on that bolt for bailing. Mar 29, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This route is mega classic and will give you a beatdown at the crux. Getting an onsight would give you instant street cred, and if you're one of those people who complain about BOCO being soft, I think this route will change your opinion. I have done many 5.13s that didn't have as hard of a boulder problem crux as this route. Very delicate feet with horrible, sloping crimps just over the roof, including a right handed crux sidepull. If you do this route when it's warm and sunny, give yourself a few extra letter grades for the send. I have found this route to be nearly impossible if it's over 60 degrees. Cold Cloudy conditions will make it easier.... Dec 3, 2012
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
The Last Train is the proper translation FWIW. German neighbor. Apr 1, 2014
Dan Hickstein
  5.13a
Dan Hickstein  
  5.13a
This is a nice TR after climbing Joy Ride. The climbing after the crux is great and maybe 11+. However, the crux (pulling over the roof and the next few moves) seemed absolutely desperate. Did some holds break? The right of the two crimps looked as if there could have been some recent breakage. To me, it seemed like there was no way that it was only 5.12, but maybe I'm just baffled by another weird Boulder Canyon crux. Anyway, it's a fun TR if you skip those crux moves. Several of the bolts were spinning, so we tightened them up with a small wrench. Sep 15, 2015
Lenore Sparks
Dolores, CO
Lenore Sparks   Dolores, CO
Actually, Zug, in German/Austrian/Swiss climbing slang means "Move". The other literal translation of this word is Train. So if a German climber saw this, they would say this meant "the last move." Sep 5, 2016
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
As with the previous poster, I don't think this is 12c anymore. Much harder than anything on Lucid Dreaming, Anarchitect, Twitch, Mighty Dog all 12c and/or 12d. Hell that first move was harder than anything on Milkbone, Ultrasaurus, and Snake Watching, all 13as. Nov 28, 2016
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12d
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.12d
After doing this route last spring and then doing lots of other similarly graded routes over the past year, I agree that this is a total sandbag at 12c. Compared to something like Hands of Destiny, which is a similar style, I would say this is definitely a letter grade harder than that. Apr 3, 2017