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Routes in Coney Island

Angry Dragon V7 7A+
Another Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Badger Traverse, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bait, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dampened Enthusiasm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Der Letzte Zug S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Die Reeperbahn S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Feeding the Beast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fly Swatter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Trap S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gagger With A Bone S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Joy Ride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lucky Strikes Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Fanatic S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pri-Moe T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Quintet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Badger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Runaway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twist and Shout S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Under the Boardwalk T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Work It On Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V6 7A
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 168 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Feb 26, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This route consists of a series of large, right-facing roof and corners, Start below roofs or traverse in from right below the 5.13 on white face with a shallow, layback corner/crack with 3 bolts.


This is on Upper Coney Island in the middle of the wall.


SR, extra #1 & #2 Camalot, red Camalot at the crux traverse, 12 QDs.


This route does not start on the right. Mar 1, 2012
I'd like to hear more about the starts to this route. We started on the left, under the obvious small roofs, and got totally shut down trying to move up under the bigger roof, about 30 feet above the starting ledge. Poor hand holds and no seemed a lot harder than 5.10. Can someone who has successfully climbed it this way comment? Has anything broken, or am I just weaker than I thought? Wish we had thought to try the other option, starting on the right and moving left at the roof. That looks more doable. Mar 24, 2012
It's nice to see someone else has problems with this pitch. I too got up to that roof and got completely shut down, and I ended up downclimbing and bailing. I'd be curious to hear if anyone has actually succeeded this way. May 6, 2012
Kevin P
Kevin P   Loveland
We tried heading up the corner system, left of the bolted route in the above photo. I had trouble getting gear that felt solid, and the moves seemed way hard compared to other routes at the grade in the area. Got totally shut down. May 15, 2013
Steve Annecone
  5.10d PG13
Steve Annecone   boulder
  5.10d PG13
A friend and I did this in '96 following the topo shown in the current and last guidebooks. He thought it was solid 5.11 or harder and wound up taking a nasty fall at that roof/protrusion about mid-way up... the rock was a little scaly and the lower half that he climbed didn't appear to have been climbed much. Interestingly, the 1999 Rossiter Boulder Canyon guidebook topo shows "11" at one point in this left start, even though the route is supposedly 5.10c.

We later checked in with Dan Hare, and Dan mentioned that the route actually started in from the right as for Coney Island, and that the guidebook topo was wrong. We came back in 2006 and started on Coney then traversed left (as shown in the photo above), and it felt about 5.10d or 11a that way and adequately protected. Maybe that left start shown in the guidebooks is waiting for a first ascent, though seems likely someone has done it that way by now? May 19, 2013
Thought this would be a good warm up before getting on the harder sport but ended up taking some whips and having to back off. The Bocan 2nd edition also seems to have the topo wrong for this route. However I didn't know and started left in the short dihedral to a ledge and then up into the right-facing corners/roofs. I was shut down working into the corner beneath the large roof. This way may go but not at the grade (10c), and the gear would not be plentiful though a 0.3 I placed kept me off the ground a few times. Sep 13, 2014

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