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Routes in Coney Island

Angry Dragon V7 7A+
Another Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Badger Traverse, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bait, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dampened Enthusiasm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Der Letzte Zug S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Die Reeperbahn S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Feeding the Beast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fly Swatter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Trap S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gagger With A Bone S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Joy Ride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lucky Strikes Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Fanatic S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pri-Moe T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Quintet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Badger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Runaway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twist and Shout S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Under the Boardwalk T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Work It On Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V6+ 7A
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Jesse Guthrie
Page Views: 3,253 total · 17/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Lieback up a short 5.10 dihedral to a long reach out left. Move up to a narrow ledge and rest. Tough moves lead up and left to a thin crack and the crux. A few more moves lead to a big ledge and the anchor. There are several places where additional gear can be placed to lessen the distance between bolts.

Location

This excellent climb tackles the smooth wall on the right side of Upper Coney Island.

Protection

Six bolts.

Photos

Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Awesome route that is often overlooked. Fun moves down low to really good granite face/slab climbing up top. Not a route where you're gonna get pumped, but I found that you had to be dialed on the moves up high with some precision footwork throughout the crux. Dec 28, 2013
What's the deal with the glued, left hand sidepull? It looks terrible and seems unnecessary. Thanks Oct 26, 2013
George Squibb
Boulder, CO
 
George Squibb   Boulder, CO
 
Seems some people take .12d here on MP, and .13a on their 8a scorecard...hmmmm. I generally don't like these finicky kind of routes, but this is one of the better routes in BoCan. The handholds are quite good, but my left big toe got really pumped. I'm going with solid 12d or soft 13a...but I'm takin' 12d on the scorecard ;-) May 7, 2010
Jesse Guthrie
Prague Czech Republic
Jesse Guthrie   Prague Czech Republic
Hi....about the bolts, there seems to be some questions...I first did the route with three bolts on the top half, but after a few people commented about hitting the ledge, I returned and add the one you clip from the undercling, before stepping left and reaching for the big undercling crack...I must admit, it was a bit scary, so thanks to those and their suggestion which made the route a nicer climb! Jan 23, 2005
Chris Archer
  5.12d
Chris Archer  
  5.12d
Thanks Bob, it is a terrific route! I agree that 4 bolts adequately protect the crux top half. Both guidebooks only show 3 bolts above the halfway point ledge and 3 below. Removing any of the 4 headwall bolts and reducing the total to 3 would result in potential ledge falls, and would be out of character with the rest of the route. I think that a bolt up high was missed in the initial count. Mark told me that he has not been on the route, so that may account for the error in his guide. In any case, the bolt number is 7, and they are well placed. All clips are from good holds. The difference in doing the route with the draws in place or hanging them seemed negligible. Kudos to Jesse for a Boulder Canyon classic. Jul 12, 2004
Chris, the upper four bolts just about have to be original, otherwise there would be bad ju-ju up there. The lower three are similar, though I can see that the first bolt could have been dispensed with by using natural gear (which we all placed before that bolt anyway).

Glad to see that you and Henry sent this puppy. Pretty fun, huh. :-)

Cheers,bobl Jul 12, 2004
Chris Archer
  5.12d
Chris Archer  
  5.12d
Where were the bolts when you led it, Peter? there are now 3 bolts below the ledge and 4 bolts protecting the headwall/ crux. They all seem to be the same vintage. Jul 11, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
That's funny about the bolt count. Are there actually seven? Both Rossiter's and Rolofson's book count six bolts. Was there a bolt added by someone? Jul 10, 2004
Chris Archer
  5.12d
Chris Archer  
  5.12d
One last note: there are 7 bolts. Jul 8, 2004
Chris Archer
  5.12d
Chris Archer  
  5.12d
Fabulous pitch. 1-2 cams in the hand sized range (2-3 size friends) protect the stretch to the first bolt after that the bolts are sufficient. The upper half of the route involves 3 short boulder problems separated by good holds with a rising pump. Jul 8, 2004
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
A note on the gear. You need trad gear for most of the lower corner, which is more awkward than its 5.10 rating might suggest. There is also an opportunity to get something in just below the start of the crux. Get established on the ledge and comfortably clipped in. You can move a right for a short space on some good, horrizontal finger slots. Here you can get some thin gear in, but we are talking about Sliders, LowBalls, or small TCUs. This will get you to the next bolt. After that, just hang on to the good hands and hope that the feet find some adhesion. You won't find a place to stop after that, even if you wanted more gear. However, the upper section is well bolted and so clean that a fall catches only clean air. Watch the gear placed below the crux, these slots are keepers, and its easy to wanker in the thin stuff so you can't get it out. This route is cool, super cool. Jan 10, 2004

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