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Fly Trap

5.11d, Sport,  Avg: 2.2 from 33 votes
FA: Dan Hare
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Coney Island
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk - open. Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab - closed. DetailsDrop down

Description

This is Steeeep, the definition of jug-hauling. The start is a little spooky, up mank rock to a dicey looking, balanced block. Make sure your belayer is not directly below, take a deep breath, yard on this block, and keep yarding. This would get two stars except the crux seems to be clipping the lower-off bolts. These are right in the middle of a hard move, which is (for someone with a tiny brain like myself) pretty distracting: Clip and grab, or keep going? Best to pretend they are not there, because there are jugs three or four feet higher.

Protection

Several bolts to a lower-off.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

One move below the anchor.
[Hide Photo] One move below the anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Archer
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] I'd agree with Crusher's assessment: the anchors are in the middle of the crux. Would've been a better route if the anchors were moved up and another bolt added beneath them. Otherwise, strenous and somewhat inobvious sequences. Jun 14, 2004
Glen Charnoski
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I also agree with Crusher about the anchor "crux" moves. I lead the thing, only to be staring at the anchor bolts holding a tenuous pinch 8 inches from the anchor, for what seemed like eternity, not knowing what to do, only to have no other option than to just fall off. Later, I realized I should have gone on past the anchor to the jugs to clip the anchor. Apr 5, 2015
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Whoa, this one was a really fun surprise, too! Short but packs a punch. Be careful with that anchor clip...but get on it! Mar 11, 2018
Michael Spiesbach
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I don't get what everyone is talking about...did they move the anchor? I had the chains right at my face with my hand on a good jug...and was able to clip. A stem mad this final clip quite manageable. Nov 18, 2019
Mark Rolofson
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] Unless a hold has broken, this climb has never been .12a. Dan Hare made the first ascent in 1994. I can't remember what Dan originally rated it. I climbed it several times in Summer 1994 & rated it .11d in my guidebook "1995 Boulder Sport Climber's Guide". I remember Jessie Guthrie saying the climb was over-graded at .11d & it was easier (.11b?). In my guidebook to the canyon, "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II" (2005), I rated the climb .11c.

The last time I climbed this route was Spring 2008. I used it for a warm-up but was forced to hang on my first go & sent it on the 2nd go. I felt like it is .11c if you clip the anchor from below & end the climb below the last hard moves. Go to the finishing jugs just above the anchor, & it's probably .11d. I never thought this climb was anywhere near hard enough to rate it .12a.

I've always really enjoyed this climb. It's very overhanging with mostly big holds & perfectly bolted. Should the anchor be moved up slightly? Perhaps. Depends on the rock quality & how much higher it could be raised before your rope would be running over lower angle rock & the lip of the overhanging wall. My guess is you wouldn't be able to raise it very much. Nov 23, 2020