Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Free Form Wall

Bad Brains S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Berlin Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bourgeois Belay Slave aka Bourgeois Belay Dogs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Castrator T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cougar V3 6A
Cyborg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Don't Think Twice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freeform S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
GOBs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guilty By Association S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Habitually Human S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helium Boys S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helter Skelter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Mechanic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Lab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matilda S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maximum Security S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimum Security S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Math Required aka No Vacancy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Onomatopoeia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Partners in Crime S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pedestrian Gene Pool S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Rocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solitary Confinement S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supermax S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swinging Chimps S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UFO S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Village Idiot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Bob Robertson and Ed Quesada?
Page Views: 98 total, 0/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a boulder problem on a rope, fun for those who have simian tendancies. It is located about 200 feet prior to the Village Idiot/Karma Mechanic area, and about 150 feet after Minimum Security. Locate a juggy roof start on the left side of a blunt arete, with a thin short bolted face to the right (Onomatopoeia, 5.12a). Clip the first bolt and yard your way to the second, it's cake from there.

Protection

4 bolts to anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
Wally
Denver
Wally   Denver
This route is way harder than rated, the broken hold between the first and second clip is very likely the reason.

Wally Mar 28, 2011
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
Jugs, my ass. Jug match, bust out right to a mediocre hold with right and dyno your ass off to a sharp ass edge. Oh yeah, did I mention you have to do this with crappy feet that keep popping off because it's so polished? The hold you're throwing too might be a little bit better than latching onto a ginsu knife. Basically 2-3 moves with a 5.9 finish. Feb 20, 2011
Brandon Schirm
colorado springs, co
  5.11b
Brandon Schirm   colorado springs, co
  5.11b
In the book, it calls this a 11b and I agree with that. I found between the first and second bolt was a little weird, but the holds were huge, at least I thought they were, again I am 6 foot. Bob Robertson and Ed Quesada had the FA. Nov 3, 2009
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
  5.11a
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
  5.11a
A friend of mine broke off a hand hold between the 1st and 2nd bolts last weekend. I tried it afterward and it felt a lot harder than I remembered, although it's been years since I've done it.... May now be a major sandbag at 11a - curious to hear what others think. Jan 21, 2009