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Swinging Chimps

5.11b, Sport,  Avg: 1.4 from 16 votes
FA: Bob Robertson and Ed Quesada?
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Sand Gulch > Free Form Wall

Description

This is a boulder problem on a rope, fun for those who have simian tendancies. It is located about 200 feet prior to the Village Idiot/Karma Mechanic area, and about 150 feet after Minimum Security. Locate a juggy roof start on the left side of a blunt arete, with a thin short bolted face to the right (Onomatopoeia, 5.12a). Clip the first bolt and yard your way to the second, it's cake from there.

Protection

4 bolts to anchors.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Derek Lawrence
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] A friend of mine broke off a hand hold between the 1st and 2nd bolts last weekend. I tried it afterward and it felt a lot harder than I remembered, although it's been years since I've done it.... May now be a major sandbag at 11a - curious to hear what others think. Jan 21, 2009
Brandon Schirm
colorado springs, co
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] In the book, it calls this a 11b and I agree with that. I found between the first and second bolt was a little weird, but the holds were huge, at least I thought they were, again I am 6 foot. Bob Robertson and Ed Quesada had the FA. Nov 3, 2009
Jeffrey Arthur
Westminster, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Jugs, my ass. Jug match, bust out right to a mediocre hold with right and dyno your ass off to a sharp ass edge. Oh yeah, did I mention you have to do this with crappy feet that keep popping off because it's so polished? The hold you're throwing too might be a little bit better than latching onto a ginsu knife. Basically 2-3 moves with a 5.9 finish. Feb 20, 2011
Wally
Denver
[Hide Comment] This route is way harder than rated, the broken hold between the first and second clip is very likely the reason.

Wally Mar 28, 2011
Ed Quesada
Colorado Springs
[Hide Comment] When Bob, Carrie, and I first did this, it took a number tries to get the first moves to go. You have to swing into it. Nov 24, 2018