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Partners in Crime
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.4 from 187
votes
Routes in Free Form Wall
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Bad Brains S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Barney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Berlin Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Bourgeois Belay Dogs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Castrator T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cougar V3 6A |
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Cyborg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Don't Think Twice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Freeform S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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GOBs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Guilty By Association S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Habitually Human S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Helium Boys S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Helter Skelter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Karma Mechanic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Laughing Lab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lucky Lettuce S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Matilda S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maximum Security S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Minimum Security S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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New World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Vacancy (submitted as No Math Required) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Onomatopoeia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Partners in Crime S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pedestrian Gene Pool S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Red Rocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sharp, The Bad, and The Thugly, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Solitary Confinement S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supermax S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Swinging Chimps S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Take S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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UFO S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Village Idiot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | K. McLaughlin, Glenn Schuler |
| Page Views: | 5,363 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Kreighton Bieger on Apr 28, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This has a height-dependent start. Find the perfect round hole in the face, then look up for the next hold. This will test your ape index and probably fry your forearms. It is a bit sporty to the second bolt and the climbing is hard, so beware. Find superb flakes, sidepulls, and pockets all the way to the top.
Per Matt Richardson: start on sharp pockets (as all climbs on this wall seem to). Move to a good pocket to the left of the first bolt. From here is the first and most technical crux of the route (no groundfall potential with a good belayer). There are several options, but all involve moving off a shallow, two finger (one if you have big hands) pocket to some bomber pockets to the right. I make this in one static slow move (I am 6'2"), but smaller folks will want to find an intermediate. The rest of the route is thin with some good rests. A final, thin crux is found immediately below the bulge at the top of the route. You will be fighting the pump at the anchors.
This is a combination of two descriptions submitted for the same route.
Per Matt Richardson: start on sharp pockets (as all climbs on this wall seem to). Move to a good pocket to the left of the first bolt. From here is the first and most technical crux of the route (no groundfall potential with a good belayer). There are several options, but all involve moving off a shallow, two finger (one if you have big hands) pocket to some bomber pockets to the right. I make this in one static slow move (I am 6'2"), but smaller folks will want to find an intermediate. The rest of the route is thin with some good rests. A final, thin crux is found immediately below the bulge at the top of the route. You will be fighting the pump at the anchors.
This is a combination of two descriptions submitted for the same route.
Location
Per Matt Richardson: This incredible route is sandwiched immediately between Helter Skelter and Pedestrian Gene Pool (11b) to the left of the crack separating Cyborg and Village Idiot.
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