Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: K. McLaughlin, Glenn Schuler
Page Views: 4,326 total · 18/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Apr 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This has a height-dependent start. Find the perfect round hole in the face, then look up for the next hold. This will test your ape index and probably fry your forearms. It is a bit sporty to the second bolt and the climbing is hard, so beware. Find superb flakes, sidepulls, and pockets all the way to the top.

Per Matt Richardson: start on sharp pockets (as all climbs on this wall seem to). Move to a good pocket to the left of the first bolt. From here is the first and most technical crux of the route (no groundfall potential with a good belayer). There are several options, but all involve moving off a shallow, two finger (one if you have big hands) pocket to some bomber pockets to the right. I make this in one static slow move (I am 6'2"), but smaller folks will want to find an intermediate. The rest of the route is thin with some good rests. A final, thin crux is found immediately below the bulge at the top of the route. You will be fighting the pump at the anchors.

This is a combination of two descriptions submitted for the same route.

Protection

Bolts to chains.

Per Matt Richardson: 8 or 9 (?) draws to the top.

Location

Per Matt Richardson: This incredible route is sandwiched immediately between Helter Skelter and Pedestrian Gene Pool (11b) to the left of the crack separating Cyborg and Village Idiot.

Photos