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Routes in Free Form Wall

Bad Brains S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Berlin Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bourgeois Belay Slave aka Bourgeois Belay Dogs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Castrator T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cougar V3 6A
Cyborg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Don't Think Twice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freeform S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
GOBs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guilty By Association S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Habitually Human S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helium Boys S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helter Skelter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Mechanic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Lab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matilda S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maximum Security S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimum Security S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Math Required aka No Vacancy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Onomatopoeia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Partners in Crime S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pedestrian Gene Pool S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Rocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solitary Confinement S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supermax S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swinging Chimps S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UFO S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Village Idiot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 82 ft
FA: [[10533]] and Harvey Miller
Page Views: 476 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Sep 1, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

A very-high first bolt and an antiquated anchor are two likely reasons this gem has seen little action. However, with a recent anchor upgrade, climbers now have only one reason to stay off it, but the climbing to the first bolt isn't difficult and is on good, sharp rock.

Scramble up the fourth class ramp of sharp, dark rock for nearly 30 feet to the first bolt. Climb past the second bolt to another ledge in the choss band just below the third bolt. Use caution clipping the third bolt because a fall going to the third bolt would result in a nasty, ankle-shattering ledge encounter.

Breathe a sigh of relief after clipping the third bolt and move into the route's crux...getting established on a clean face of quality rock and climbing past the fourth bolt. Enjoy engaging arete climbing with great position past two more bolts before moving back left onto the face for two more bolts and the anchor.

Location

This is the first route to the right of Guilty By Association. It is easily identified by the very high first bolt.

Protection

8 bolts with white-painted homemade hangers to a two-bolt anchor with brown-painted chain. I replaced the homemade hangers and gnarly, brittle cord/webbing anchor with real hangers and chain on 8/31/2013.

Photos

Derek Lawrence
Bailey
 
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
 
Lead bolt hangers upgraded 4/24/16. 3 of the bolts on the upper headwall replaced with stainless steel hardware provided by the ASCA. Apr 25, 2016
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
My pleasure, Bob. Thanks for this and so many other routes at Shelf. I really enjoyed this route...the face looks so blank from below but has some wonderful pockets and edges on it. Sep 2, 2013
Thanks Jason for the up grade. Harvey Miller was also on the first ascent. Sep 2, 2013