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Routes in Free Form Wall

Bad Brains S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Berlin Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bourgeois Belay Slave aka Bourgeois Belay Dogs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Castrator T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cougar V3 6A
Cyborg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Don't Think Twice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freeform S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
GOBs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guilty By Association S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Habitually Human S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helium Boys S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helter Skelter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Mechanic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Lab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matilda S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maximum Security S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimum Security S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Math Required aka No Vacancy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Onomatopoeia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Partners in Crime S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pedestrian Gene Pool S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Rocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solitary Confinement S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supermax S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swinging Chimps S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UFO S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Village Idiot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Don Goodhue, 1989
Page Views: 823 total, 4/month
Shared By: montay on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a one move wonder, but the rest of the climbing is pretty fun, too.

To locate this route, hike up the Sand Gulch Canyon to the Freefrom Wall. At the left end of the wall is a yawning chimney with red home made hangers. This is "Barney (5.9)".

Just to the right of this route is a bolted line that goes through a funky pod. This route is Bad Brains.

The crux comes on this one real early. With an open mind and some creativity, it goes somewhat easily (for the grade). After you have solved the crux, continue upwards on fun moves that are probably 5.9ish. Keep heading up and slightly right to the anchors on "Helter Skelter".

Protection

6 bolts to "Helter Skelter" anchors.

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There's one 12a move, which I would definitely say is 12a, and the rest is significantly easier. There may be another way of doing it, but for me, the crux involves an extremely sharp edge: once I felt it I knew I only had a couple attempts before bad things happened to my fingers. I got it, but the climb isn't that great and I don't think I'd want to deal with the sharp edges again just to get a send. Next time I'll just man-up and get on Freeform instead.... Feb 18, 2013
Not 12a. Maybe 11c/d. Hard but not 12a IMO. Sep 27, 2012
Kris S
Ocean Beach, SF
Kris S   Ocean Beach, SF
Hard, no matter which way you go about it. You will be pulling on small/sharp crimps or terrible pockets for the crux sequence. Height won't really help you out either. Enjoy the first two bolts, bust the crux, clip 3, hold it together thru the balancy moves to the anchors. Not soft for the grade IMHO. Nov 17, 2008