Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,003 total · 14/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Apr 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

162 Opinions

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This is bolts to chains along a hand crack. It is a crowded and popular route along a so-so bolted crack. You could trad lead it, but the crack appeared manky.


It is the third bolt line (both 12s in between) left of Partners in Crime.


Barney is a bolted crack. It would probably take gear, but why bother? 13? bolts.


In 1995, I bolted this climb solo; Sence then, I have retro-bolted it twice. The first time was right after I led the first clean assent; That day I added 4 or 5 bolts to this climb. The second time I retroed this line was in ?1997?, I added a last bolt because not many people would climb straight to the anchors.FA: Carie and BobMy first Rabbit was named after this climb; My second Rabbit named another climb in Newlin Creak (Bam-bam). Jan 3, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
The route now has seven bolts. Fun stemming and jamming down low leads to harder climbing near the top. I may have done a more difficult variation by moving out of the crack to the right, but I felt the moves near the top were harder than 5.9. Oct 15, 2003
While this route is described as a "bolted crack climb", it is not in reality a crack climb. The thing is climbed on jugs and pockets with nary a jam. Several bolts with homemade hangers need to be replaced, and the anchor bolts are little eyebolts that also need to be replaced. Mar 27, 2006
Andrew Iltis
Denver, CO
Andrew Iltis   Denver, CO
Yea, toward the top I kind of got lost wondering which way to go. I was really pumped after finishing this one, but barely broke a sweat on the nearby 11s. Strange route but hey, it still goes up. Jun 12, 2007
Brandon Schirm
colorado springs, co
Brandon Schirm   colorado springs, co
Bob and Carrie added some bolts and removed the old anchors. This makes the total # of bolts around 13 ish. Jul 15, 2008
Dave Meyers
Evergreen, CO
Dave Meyers   Evergreen, CO
After going back and climbing this route with the new extension, I definitely feel that it is a 5.10. Barney now goes all the way up to the top of the cliff with 3-4 more bolts past the old anchor and is pretty sustained. Not that it was a bad climb before, but now it's a Sand Gulch classic. Nice job, Bob and Carrie! Oct 9, 2008
Adam Caimi
Adam Caimi   CANON CITY, CO
Climbed this yesterday with some friends. We never did find the anchors on this one and had to do some interesting down climbing. We used "the Book" which told us it had 7 bolts, appears to have more now (13?). Definitely harder than 5.9 at the top as we climbed the Opportunist and Enterprise prior to this (solid 5.9's) and cruised up them.
Some beta on location of anchors would be nice. It seemed to have a 13 foot lead out at the top to the anchors. Is this right? Oct 18, 2008
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Go right following a nice, new bolted line that finishes up at a twin cold shut anchor. The moves to get there are well protected and not harder than 10a. So the route is in fact not a 5.9. Nov 23, 2008
Smoulder, CO
jcntrl   Smoulder, CO
Top half of this (route extension) did not feel like 5.9 and is comparable with other 10s in the area. First half is 5.9 though. Getting to the anchor was a bit confusing; there's one on the left and right? I chose right; a shoulder-length runner helps with rope drag on the last bolt prior to the diagonal traverse to anchor. Pretty enjoyable climbing, varied techniques throughout and nicely sustained with rewarding rests. Jun 1, 2009
Noah G
Alma, Co
Noah G   Alma, Co
I agree the extension on this didn't make sense (went right) and didn't really seem worth the effort. I could see it freaking someone out new to leading and seeking this grade. Bottom half was fun. Sep 28, 2009
Hiro Protagonist
Hiro Protagonist   Colorado
Ha ha, 5.9 in your dreams. The bottom was cruiser and probably 5.9, but as others mentioned, the sustained nature of the route and the difficulty of the top.... Having climbed Suburbia (5.10b/c) and Enterprise (5.9+), Barney is tough! I'll leave comments to others, since I was climbing it in the dark with a headlamp. Choosing anchors at the top is definitely interesting.... Oct 21, 2012
John W
Estes Park
John W   Estes Park
Whatever the rating, it is not 5.9. Also, it should be noted that the hanger on the bolt protecting the crux is bent as if has been fallen on too many times. As well, the bolting at the top seems contrived and one of the anchor bolts is loose. Skip it. Jan 18, 2013
Forrest L.
Forrest L.  
Barney is a weird route. Every move truly is 5.9 or less, but it's very easy to go slightly off route onto all the 5.10 that everyone is talking about. 5.9+.

If you think it's harder, you didn't find the best way up or didn't rest when you could.

Hint: Two slight traverses.

Good route. Apr 21, 2013
Wherever we park!
AOSR   Wherever we park!
I like the extension that trends a bit right. 10a is fair now that the lower anchors are gone. Oct 17, 2016
D. Scott Clark
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
The bottom before the bulge is maybe 5.8 and can be ended by moving right to anchors. Pure joy climbing. The top is confusing after pulling the bulge. Does the route go right or left? I ended up going left to the anchors for Freeform. Sep 9, 2017
m1nd7r1p McG33
Denver, CO
m1nd7r1p McG33   Denver, CO
We were at Free Form this Sunday (1/28/2018) in the queue for Barney. The party in front of us cleaned their anchor and when pulling the rope, the nut and hanger on the right anchor completely fell off! I borrowed a Metolius nut tool that had the hex wrench punch-outs in the handle, climbed the route and put the hanger and nut back on, but those nut tool wrenches aren't the best for this kind of job. I got the nut pretty tight, but someone should take a real wrench up and tighten it down all the way. Jan 30, 2018