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Routes in Free Form Wall

Bad Brains S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Berlin Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bourgeois Belay Slave aka Bourgeois Belay Dogs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Castrator T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cougar V3 6A
Cyborg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Don't Think Twice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freeform S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
GOBs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guilty By Association S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Habitually Human S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helium Boys S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helter Skelter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Mechanic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Lab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matilda S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maximum Security S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimum Security S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Math Required aka No Vacancy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Onomatopoeia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Partners in Crime S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pedestrian Gene Pool S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Rocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solitary Confinement S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supermax S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swinging Chimps S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UFO S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Village Idiot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Ric Geiman, 1990
Page Views: 2,124 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Minimum Security is a classic, exposed arete. Start with thin moves past the first three bolts on the technical slab. Clip the next bolts just prior to the business from secure but slightly loose terrain. Catch a rest before launching up the steep arete. The crux is nicely exposed adding to the heady moves. The chains were not equalized well and kinked up the rope. A must do!

Protection

11 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Great route with wicked exposure and some off balance and technical arete climbing. I liked this one. Apr 10, 2016
Julia
  5.11+
Julia  
  5.11+
Do this climb if you want to pull on some sweet jugs and pockets and like feeling really exposed! May 21, 2015
I also thought the wall to the left had potential. It looks incredible! After working it some on TR back in the '90s, I found that I really had to force the route to stay on the face. Maybe someone should have another look. Oct 1, 2012
There would be a nice hard line up the overhanging wall just to the left of this route. Mar 13, 2012
Noah G
Alma, Co
  5.11c
Noah G   Alma, Co
  5.11c
Classic. Good photo ops on this one. Sweet position. Sep 28, 2009
Bob Rotert
  5.11
Bob Rotert  
  5.11
One of my favorite routes at Shelf. One that has a lot of character & very unique compared to most routes at Shelf. Love the position & balancy climbing up the arete. Only thing that would make it better is if you had to do the roof to get to the arete instead of being able to traverse onto the arete. You can climb out under the roof to get established on the arĂȘte vs moving up and then traversing out, feet just above the roof, to the arete. Either way is awesome. Doing the roof a bit harder if your body mass index is up. I agree the first unprotected moves to the first bolt may be the technical crux. Stick clipping would be prudent if you don't feel solid on those moves. Nov 10, 2008
richard magill
  5.11c
richard magill  
  5.11c
Excellent route - great position and fun climbing up a beautiful overhanging arete. Mar 23, 2004
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
I have to agree with Dave about the technical crux. It is probably in the first 20 feet of the climb. There are good rests after every hard section, so give this climb a try if it is near your leading limit. Don't pull on the loose stuff with chalk on it under the roof. None of these holds are needed for the climb. Mar 17, 2003
I just did this a couple of weeks ago to avoid the mob scene at Freeform. Better then 3 stars!!! I almost thought the start was the technical crux, the actual arete was just mind games and balance. Not as pumpy as I was expecting looking at it from the ground but lots of really blind- balancy-feely reaches. A MUST DO!! Mar 30, 2002
FA: Ric Geiman, 1990. Mar 30, 2002
Jesse Ryan  
 
Forgot to mention that it is one of the first routes on Freeform Wall as one approaches from the Campground. Should be obvious when you have found it due to the picturesque steep arete above the starting slab. Jan 1, 2001