Type: Sport, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: Paul Lanz, , Larry Floyd 1987 or 1989
Page Views: 3,106 total · 11/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Apr 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Better be strong at the grade; it's stiff, bouldery 11b on sharp pockets right off the ground. Hard climbing to the first bolt and a little bold to the second. It eases off a bit up to a roof which you pull via a good edge and a long throw - try not to stem on the left.

Per Andrew Iltis: The crux is right off the ground moving through some bad pockets to a monster jug. As with most of these routes, the crux is height-dependent and will be much harder for anyone who cannot bypass the smaller holds through the first crux...or reach the good holds over the finishing roof. In the great words of Bruce Hornsby, "That's just the way it is." -really fun, interesting climbing, and possibly good onsight potential.

Eds. Note: this is a combination of 2 submissions into 1 for organization purposes.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts to chains.

Location Suggest change

Per Andrew Iltis: Start at the 8 1/2 foot high bolt in the dark, pocketed rock left of Karma Mechanic.