All Locations > Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Sand Gulch > Free Form Wall

Village Idiot

Name: Village Idiot
Rating: 2.7

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Free Form Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bad Brains S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Barney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Berlin Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Bourgeois Belay Dogs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Castrator T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cougar V3 6A
	Cyborg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Don't Think Twice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Freeform S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	GOBs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Guilty By Association S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Habitually Human S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Helium Boys S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Helter Skelter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Karma Mechanic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Laughing Lab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Matilda S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Maximum Security S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Minimum Security S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	New World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	No Vacancy (submitted as No Math Required) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
	Onomatopoeia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Partners in Crime S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Pedestrian Gene Pool S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
	Red Rocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sharp, The Bad, and The Thugly, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Solitary Confinement S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Supermax S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Swinging Chimps S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
	Take S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	UFO S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Village Idiot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type:	Sport, 30 ft (9 m)
FA:	Paul Lanz, , Larry Floyd 1987 or 1989
Page Views:	2,545 total · 11/month
Shared By:	Kreighton Bieger on Apr 28, 2001
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Better be strong at the grade; it's stiff, bouldery 11b on sharp pockets right off the ground. Hard climbing to the first bolt and a little bold to the second. It eases off a bit up to a roof which you pull via a good edge and a long throw - try not to stem on the left.

Per Andrew Iltis: The crux is right off the ground moving through some bad pockets to a monster jug. As with most of these routes, the crux is height-dependent and will be much harder for anyone who cannot bypass the smaller holds through the first crux...or reach the good holds over the finishing roof. In the great words of Bruce Hornsby, "That's just the way it is." -really fun, interesting climbing, and possibly good onsight potential.

Eds. Note: this is a combination of 2 submissions into 1 for organization purposes.