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Routes in Free Form Wall

Bad Brains S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Berlin Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bourgeois Belay Slave aka Bourgeois Belay Dogs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Castrator T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cougar V3 6A
Cyborg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Don't Think Twice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freeform S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
GOBs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guilty By Association S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Habitually Human S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helium Boys S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helter Skelter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Mechanic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Lab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matilda S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maximum Security S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimum Security S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Math Required aka No Vacancy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Onomatopoeia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Partners in Crime S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pedestrian Gene Pool S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Rocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solitary Confinement S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supermax S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swinging Chimps S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UFO S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Village Idiot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Paul Lanz, , Larry Floyd 1987 or 1989
Page Views: 1,996 total, 10/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Apr 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Better be strong at the grade; it's stiff, bouldery 11b on sharp pockets right off the ground. Hard climbing to the first bolt and a little bold to the second. It eases off a bit up to a roof which you pull via a good edge and a long throw - try not to stem on the left.

Per Andrew Iltis: The crux is right off the ground moving through some bad pockets to a monster jug. As with most of these routes, the crux is height-dependent and will be much harder for anyone who cannot bypass the smaller holds through the first crux...or reach the good holds over the finishing roof. In the great words of Bruce Hornsby, "That's just the way it is." -really fun, interesting climbing, and possibly good onsight potential.

Eds. Note: this is a combination of 2 submissions into 1 for organization purposes.

Protection

Bolts to chains.

Location

Per Andrew Iltis: Start at the 8 1/2 foot high bolt in the dark, pocketed rock left of Karma Mechanic.

Photos

Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
 
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
 
I enjoyed this one. The crux for me was the roof. The bottom has an additional bolt, so you feel really safe, the moves are not hard, and the feet are pretty good. The route is really fun and stays more sustained in the 11a range if you keep left/on the bolt line from bolt 3 to the roof. Most people follow the big holds and chalk to the right though it seems.

4 of us climbed the route. 3 people 5'8" and 1 6'4". All the short people had to cut feet dyno at the roof vs. a big but static move for the tall guy. Mar 12, 2017
SammyJ
Colorado springs
 
SammyJ   Colorado springs
 
Good route, but beware of the choss on the right side of the boltline midway up. There is a lot of chalk on those hallow sketchy flakes. Dec 5, 2016
Chrissy Crushes
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Chrissy Crushes   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
For someone who is 5' 5"...I did the crux at the bottom first try but found the roof super reachy and challenging. Jan 19, 2015
Pretty darn fun. Jan 23, 2012
Noah G
Alma, Co
  5.11b
Noah G   Alma, Co
  5.11b
A favorite. Climbs slightly harder, though better quality, on a plumb line through the slab bolts all the way to the roof instead of stepping right. Sep 28, 2009
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
This climb is not height dependent unless your pushing 7-ft. I'm 6'3" and still found the start reachy as hell with nothing but smears for feet. No matter how tall you are I think the start is just as hard for just about anyone since there are several options for the start. None of the holds felt better than the others until you finally clip the 2nd bolt. Jan 14, 2009
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11a/b
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11a/b
This was my first Shelf Road route. Not a bad route, but would be better if it weren't so close to the corner. Sep 8, 2007
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
Depending on how you approach this climb, I think that surmounting the roof is another crux. If you use the wall to the left, then the roof will be a little easier....if you huck for the large, positive ledge above the roof and high step to the lower ledge, then this portion will be harder. Sep 4, 2007
Just some brief history on "the village idiot". This route was originally partially equiped by an ex C-springs local. The individual abandoned the project, Paul Lanz finished bolting it and then led it. Obviously, the name is aimed at its original would be first ascentionist.... Jan 9, 2005
Paul Lanz not Kevin Mcglaughlin did the FFA of this route. Jan 9, 2005
I didn't use that stem, I swear I didn't! I just had to check it out to see why everyone else was using it. And I can tell you, it goes just fine straight up! Thanks for the photo Ron! Oct 15, 2003
I found the crux to be off the ground past (new) first bolt to second - rest up beneath the roof and climb straight up on solid holds. Oct 14, 2003
New first bolt added 2/2002. Mar 30, 2002
One route left of Karma Mechanic. Identified by a high first bolt and a roof up higher. Jan 1, 2001
Steve Merschel - My favorite route on the trip. The start is bouldery as hell and the sharp edges on the first few pockets define pain. Bring tape if you e a Nancy like me. Whew! This route is awesome! The mini-roof at the end is also fun. You get on this edge and then throw for this huge ledge (watch out, its pretty sharp too). A great place to spend a day. We found a lot of great routes around this area and were running 3 ropes all day long. Jan 1, 2001