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No Vacancy (submitted as No Math Required)
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.4 from 52
votes
Routes in Free Form Wall
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Bad Brains S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Barney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Berlin Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Bourgeois Belay Dogs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Castrator T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cougar V3 6A |
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Cyborg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Don't Think Twice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Freeform S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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GOBs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Guilty By Association S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Habitually Human S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Helium Boys S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Helter Skelter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Karma Mechanic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Laughing Lab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lucky Lettuce S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Matilda S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maximum Security S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Minimum Security S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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New World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Vacancy (submitted as No Math Required) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Onomatopoeia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Partners in Crime S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pedestrian Gene Pool S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Red Rocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sharp, The Bad, and The Thugly, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Solitary Confinement S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supermax S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Swinging Chimps S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Take S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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UFO S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Village Idiot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 38.6218, -105.23101 |
| FA: | Robertson and Romano. Jim D'Napoli, 1990? |
| Page Views: | 2,174 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | dancesatmoonrise on Jul 19, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This route is just left of Partners in Crime on the Freeform Wall in Sand Gulch. It is just right of a shallow dihedral/crack.
The route is identified by six glue-in bolts, with washers behind the hangers. The hangers, Kong-Bonati, have "Italy" stamped on the face. A seventh bolt was apparently added later, at the bottom, by an unknown party and has a home-made hanger. The anchors are 1/2 x 4" sleeve bolts with Metolius hangers and quicklinks/chain.
History - the FA party felt the line was a bit squeezed by standards of the day, so they called it "No Vacancy." Glue-ins are messy, so a rag was used to keep things clean. A female climber came by, most curious about the route construction and especially the old pair of underwear used to tidy things up and dubbed the new route, "Tighty Whities."
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