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Routes in Free Form Wall

Bad Brains S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Berlin Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bourgeois Belay Slave aka Bourgeois Belay Dogs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Castrator T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cougar V3 6A
Cyborg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Don't Think Twice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freeform S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
GOBs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guilty By Association S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Habitually Human S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helium Boys S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helter Skelter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Mechanic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Lab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matilda S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maximum Security S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimum Security S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Math Required aka No Vacancy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Onomatopoeia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Partners in Crime S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pedestrian Gene Pool S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Rocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solitary Confinement S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supermax S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swinging Chimps S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Take S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UFO S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Village Idiot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Eric Larson, Derek Lawrence
Page Views: 2,683 total · 23/month
Shared By: Derek Lawrence on Mar 23, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the arete past sharp holds then up blocky terrain to a rest ledge. Tread lightly on the blocky rock above the 4th bolt. Clip the 2 bolts at the bottom of the headwall (the lower bolt keeping the rope out of the way). Make hard moves onto the headwall, then face climb up pockets/edges to the top of the headwall. May be slightly easier for taller climbers. Finish up at the anchors at the nice ledge. Lower or rap 80 feet.

Caveat Emptor: While I did clean the loose rock in the area around and above the 4th bolt and nothing has come off while climbing it, there is still the potential for stuff to come off. Packs, dogs, kids, etc. should be kept out of the alcove at the bottom of the route....

Location

Start 15 feet left of Minimum Security.

Protection

10 bolts plus anchors.
Anchors: 3 bolts, 2 new with chains, 1 old.

Photos

eric larson
aurora, co
  5.12a
eric larson   aurora, co
  5.12a
Fantastic route with fun moves on beautiful rock on the headwall! Save some skin for this new must-do Shelf route! Mar 23, 2009
Johny A
Aurora . CO
 
Johny A   Aurora . CO
 
Thanks goes out to Derek for a great line. Never mind the ledge, the climbing on the upper wall will have you smiling all the way to the chains! Definitely a must do. Apr 15, 2009
Tom R
Denver, CO
Tom R   Denver, CO
Way to go, Derek! Glad to hear you sent it! I look forward to trying it. Jun 9, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Strong work, Derek! That thing is hard!
Congrats on your send! Jun 10, 2009
Fred Bonnard
5.12a
Fred Bonnard  
5.12a
Really not as sharp as 2 months ago: stronger finger or natural erosion? Very fun sequence on headwall and all my skin left.... Apr 29, 2013
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Being able to stem out to the opposing wall just a wee bit right of the crux is the only reason this route doesn't get four stars. Going directly up on the face is better movement and consistent with most 12b's I have done at Shelf, similar to say, "New Ethics". Quality movement on the headwall.... Apr 10, 2016

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