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Routes in Free Form Wall

Bad Brains S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Berlin Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bourgeois Belay Slave aka Bourgeois Belay Dogs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Castrator T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cougar V3 6A
Cyborg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Don't Think Twice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freeform S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
GOBs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guilty By Association S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Habitually Human S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helium Boys S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helter Skelter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Mechanic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Lab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matilda S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maximum Security S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimum Security S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Math Required aka No Vacancy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Onomatopoeia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Partners in Crime S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pedestrian Gene Pool S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Rocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solitary Confinement S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supermax S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swinging Chimps S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UFO S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Village Idiot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Gabe Ostriker, Derek Lawrence
Page Views: 2,360 total, 24/month
Shared By: Derek Lawrence on Dec 21, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

So named for the pump you'll feel at the top....

Start at a layback crack for 2 bolts. Trend right at the 3rd bolt, then go up and back left past 2 more bolts to a rest stance below the corner. Sustained, pumpy climbing through tricky laybacks and underclings takes you to the anchors at the nice ledge. It gets a little sharp at the top. Lower or rap 80 feet.

Be wary of loose rock at the top and the midway rest. As with Solitary Confinement, packs, dogs, kids, etc. should be kept out of the alcove at the bottom of the route....

Location

Start 15 feet left of Solitary Confinement (~30 feet left of Minimum Security).

Protection

10 bolts plus anchors.

The anchors are shared with Solitary Confinement (3 bolts, 2 new with chains, 1 old).

Photos

Julia
  5.11d
Julia  
  5.11d
Wow! This is the best 11 I have been on at Shelf. Needs more people on it so it's cleaner, but it is still amazing. Sweet climbing along all different kinds of holds, always a great foot. Very unique style for Shelf, a must do! May 21, 2015
Ben Hall
Boulder, Colorado
  5.11d
Ben Hall   Boulder, Colorado
  5.11d
Soon to be a classic, one of the best 11d's at Shelf Road. Nov 18, 2013
Ben Hall
Boulder, Colorado
  5.11d
Ben Hall   Boulder, Colorado
  5.11d
Supermax is Super Badass! Shelf road classic for the layback climbers! Powerful and yes, "Super sweet". Feb 20, 2013
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
A fantastic addition to Shelf (and cleaning up quite nicely)! Observe how far the rope hangs out from the wall after being lowered and you will realize why it feels so pumpy. Nov 3, 2012
Tzilla Rapdrilla
  5.11d
Tzilla Rapdrilla  
  5.11d
Great route, nice & pumpy & not too thin or sharp like many Shelf routes. The chert band midway seems to be cleaning up pretty well, although some care may still be warranted there. Mar 13, 2012
GOOD line! I would have given it 4 stars were it not for the chossband about 4 bolts up: I pulled a big piece (like 7-8 lbs) of chert out. The good news is that it is now cleaner and more solid.

Anyway, once you get up into the powerful laybacking and sidepulling, it is really excellent, very pumpy and fun. I also thought the bolting was perfect - a little spaced out but always a clip where you really need it. Got on this without knowing what it was and when I came down I said "probably 11+, possibly 12a", so I think your grading is right on. Jan 23, 2012
Ryan Sanders
C Springs
 
Ryan Sanders   C Springs
 
This is a very powerful route for Shelf, I loved it. There is definitely some loose blocks about 40ft up, but it is still 4 stars in my book. No idea on the grade, Gabe, felt more powerful than Lats, but Lats may have a harder move. Jan 22, 2012
Fred Bonnard
  5.11d
Fred Bonnard  
  5.11d
Very nice route, interesting move at the 3rd bolt but had trouble getting confortable in the laydback moves at the mini roof and ran out of gas to pull the last wall, agree with the 11d rating. Mar 8, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Super killer! good eye, Derek.

Lookin' forward to checkin' it out after the holidays and redeeming myself on Solitary. Dec 22, 2009
JasonT  
Nice job with the name, guys. I was there yesterday while you guys were developing, and this looks like a super sweet route. Can't wait to jump on it next time!! Thanks! Dec 21, 2009
GabeO
New Haven, CT
  5.11+
GabeO   New Haven, CT
  5.11+
Very enjoyable route. No show-stopper moves, just sustained. Would love to see more ascents, so as to get a good consensus grade. Please get on it and let us know what you think! Dec 21, 2009