Elevation: 1,920 ft
GPS: 38.051, -81.031 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 124,889 total · 813/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007 with improvements by Nick Pf
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

Another amazing sector of the New River Gorge, with a great lineup of sport and trad climbs of all grades. There's great bouldering here, too.  Sub-areas are listed climber's left-to-right (downstream to upstream).

Regarding parking: If there are open spots where the Williams guidebook designates, park here first and be mindful that it is a small parking area (read: You don't need 6 feet of space between you and the car next to you). Parking can be found along the dirt road as well, but this option should only be taken when the designated parking is full. Short approach either way.

Getting There

From Route 19, drive along the Lansing-Edmond Road past the two parking lots for Endless Wall.  The distance from 19 to Beauty Mtn Rd is almost exactly 2.5 miles.   About 3/5 of a mile past the Nuttal Parking lot, look for the gravel Beauty Mountain Road heading right. Drive about 100 yards off the pavement to a sort of open intersection (this is where old parking was). Take a left, and in a couple seconds you'll see the parking with a pit toilet off on your right.

Follow the obvious trail from this parking, passing a house and a gate.  Past the gate continue along a good gravel road that drops down into the gorge, where various cutoff paths branch off to climbing areas. The Super Mario/Tubin' Dudes area is to your right, and all others to the left, designated by a brown Park Service Sign.

If you continue down this main gravel road, you'll wind up at the Nuttalburg Mine Site, one of the best-preserved mining ruins in the area. It's totally worth the trip!

98 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beauty Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 94
Journey to the Center of the Brain
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 103
Happy Hands
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 83
You Want It, You Got It
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 141
Super Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 53
Quick Robin, to the Batcrack!
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 64
Out of Mind
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 53
Mushrooms
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 122
Burning Calves
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 41
Spiderwand
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 75
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 49
Rod Serling Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 106
Brain Tweezers
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 87
Disturbance
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 57
M.E.N.S.A.
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 31
Chunky Monkey
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Journey to the Center of th… 3) The Brain
 94
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Happy Hands 5) Burning Buttress
 103
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
You Want It, You Got It 3) The Brain
 83
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Super Crack 7) Thunder Buttress
 141
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Quick Robin, to the Batcrack! 6) Middle Beauty
 53
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Out of Mind 3) The Brain
 64
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Mushrooms 7) Thunder Buttress
 53
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Burning Calves 5) Burning Buttress
 122
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Spiderwand 5) Burning Buttress
 41
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam 5) Burning Buttress
 75
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rod Serling Crack 5) Burning Buttress
 49
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Brain Tweezers 3) The Brain
 106
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Disturbance 4) Genocide Cave
 87
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
M.E.N.S.A. 3) The Brain
 57
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Chunky Monkey 3) The Brain
 31
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Beauty Mountain »

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