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Areas in Beauty Mountain

Ali Bubba Cave 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Brain, The 5 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Burning Buttress 12 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Garbage Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Genocide Cave 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Middle Beauty 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Ram's Head 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Short Creek Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Super Mario Boulder 3 / 9 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Thunder Buttress 7 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Elevation: 1,920 ft
GPS: 38.051, -81.031 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 65,661 total, 506/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 11, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

Description

Awesome place to climb.

Became popular in the early 1980s, as one of the original climbing destinations in the NRG.Located in the north portion of the gorge it faces south-west and it 3/4mi long and averages 60 to 120 feet tall. Beauty is best known for its crack, but over the past 10 years many hard sport lines have been established here.

Ram's Head is a beautiful scenic overlook that inspires visitors that aren't climbers to do the 15 min hike(a long hike for the NRG) to get the awesome views of the Lower New River.

Regarding parking: If there are open spots where the Williams guidebook designates, park here first and be mindful that it is a small parking area (read: You don't need 6 feet of space between you and the car next to you). Parking can be found along the dirt road as well, but this option should only be taken when the designated parking is full. Short approach either way.
Writing in chalk Details

Getting There

From Route 19, drive 2.5 miles down Lansing Edmond Road, and take a right onto Beauty Mountain Road. The fork in the road is the designated parking. If you are using the older Steve Cater guidebook, be aware that he has completely different parking marked, which is WAAAAAAY over toward the upstream, clifftop part of Beauty Mountain. Do not go here!

From the parking, walk down the dirt road, past the steel gate and private residence, over the top of Garbage Wall, and look for a brown climber information sign on the left. This is the start of the approach trail that bails off the left sidehill from the road. (if you keep following the dirt road, in about 10 minutes you'll wind up at the Nuttalberg Mine ruins; a super worthwhile diversion!) Follow the well-marked trail to some stepping stones over Short Creek, and the Brain area shortly thereafter.

Parking at Beauty Mountain has long been a source of contention between climbers, the Park Service, and local homeowners. With that in mind:
***PLEASE DO NOT DO THE FOLLOWING***

-Drive down and park in front of the gate. This is private property and doing so threatens access.

-Block access to any of the roads by not pulling off the road far enough. Emergency vehicles need to be able to pass.

-Park in the designated area in a way that doesn't allow others to park there. About six cars park there if common sense is used. Below is a picture of how NOT to park.



80 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beauty Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Journey to the Center of the Brain
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
You Want It, You Got It
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Happy Hands
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Super Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quick Robin, to the Batcrack!
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mushrooms
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burning Calves
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spiderwand
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rod Serling Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brain Tweezers
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chasin' the Wind
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Disturbance
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
M.E.N.S.A.
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chunky Monkey
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Journey to the Center of th… Brain 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
You Want It, You Got It Brain 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Happy Hands Burning Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Super Crack Thunder Buttress 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Quick Robin, to the Batcrack! Middle Beauty 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Mushrooms Thunder Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Burning Calves Burning Buttress 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Spiderwand Burning Buttress 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam Burning Buttress 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rod Serling Crack Burning Buttress 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Brain Tweezers Brain 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Chasin' the Wind Middle Beauty 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Disturbance Genocide Cave 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
M.E.N.S.A. Brain 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Chunky Monkey Brain 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Zach Buecker
Knoxville, TN
Zach Buecker   Knoxville, TN
If the lots are full do not park on the shoulder of Lansing-Edmond Rd. Last Saturday cars were being towed. Park at another lot and hike in. Oct 27, 2015

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