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Areas in Beauty Mountain

1) Super Mario Boulder 3 / 9 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
2) Garbage Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
3) The Brain 5 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
4) Genocide Cave 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
5) Burning Buttress 12 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
6) Middle Beauty 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
7) Thunder Buttress 7 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
8) Ram's Head 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Short Creek Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Another amazing sector of the New River Gorge, with a great lineup of sport and trad climbs of all grades. There's great bouldering here, too.  Sub-areas are listed climber's left-to-right (downstream to upstream).

Regarding parking: If there are open spots where the Williams guidebook designates, park here first and be mindful that it is a small parking area (read: You don't need 6 feet of space between you and the car next to you). Parking can be found along the dirt road as well, but this option should only be taken when the designated parking is full. Short approach either way.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

From Route 19, drive along the Lansing-Edmond Road past the two parking lots for Endless Wall.  The distance from 19 to Beauty Mtn Rd is almost exactly 2.5 miles.   About 3/5 of a mile past the Nuttal Parking lot, look for the gravel Beauty Mountain Road heading right. Drive about 100 yards off the pavement, and when the road takes a hard left past a little intersection, find the obvious parking between two private drives. IMPORTANT: There is space for maybe 4-5 vehicles here, if you park smart.  DO NOT drive to the end of the road and park by the gate and trail head.  This is private property, and doing so jeopardizes access. DO NOT block any driveways or park in the road; locals have been getting annoyed at climbers' bad parking jobs here, and vehicles have been towed and/or ticketed in the past. (Currently, Google Maps has a parking area for the "Headhouse Trailhead" listed right near this gate. THIS IS WRONG. Do not park here)  If there are not parking spaces, drive another 50-100 yards to the left and find scattered spaces off the road.

Walk down the road that cuts immediately behind the parking, passing a house on your right and a gate after about 100 yards.  Past the gate continue along a good gravel road that drops down into the gorge, where various cutoff paths branch off to climbing areas. The Super Mario/Tubin' Dudes area is to your right, and all others to the left, designated by a brown Park Service Sign.

If you continue down this main gravel road, you'll wind up at the Nuttalburg Mine Site, one of the best-preserved mining ruins in the area. It's totally worth the trip!

87 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beauty Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 81
Journey to the Center of the Brain
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 69
You Want It, You Got It
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 90
Happy Hands
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 117
Super Crack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 42
Quick Robin, to the Batcrack!
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 104
Burning Calves
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 35
Spiderwand
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 63
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 45
Rod Serling Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 86
Brain Tweezers
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 19
Chasin' the Wind
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 18
Welcome to Beauty
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 74
Disturbance
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 48
M.E.N.S.A.
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 29
Chunky Monkey
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Journey to the Center of th… 3) The Brain
 81
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
You Want It, You Got It 3) The Brain
 69
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Happy Hands 5) Burning Buttress
 90
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Super Crack 7) Thunder Buttress
 117
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Quick Robin, to the Batcrack! 6) Middle Beauty
 42
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Burning Calves 5) Burning Buttress
 104
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Spiderwand 5) Burning Buttress
 35
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam 5) Burning Buttress
 63
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rod Serling Crack 5) Burning Buttress
 45
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Brain Tweezers 3) The Brain
 86
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Chasin' the Wind 6) Middle Beauty
 19
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Welcome to Beauty 8) Ram's Head
 18
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Disturbance 4) Genocide Cave
 74
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
M.E.N.S.A. 3) The Brain
 48
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Chunky Monkey 3) The Brain
 29
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Photos

Zach Buecker
Knoxville, TN
Zach Buecker   Knoxville, TN
If the lots are full do not park on the shoulder of Lansing-Edmond Rd. Last Saturday cars were being towed. Park at another lot and hike in. Oct 27, 2015

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