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Areas in Beauty Mountain

Brain, The 5 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Burning Buttress 12 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Garbage Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Genocide Cave 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Middle Beauty 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Ram's Head 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Short Creek Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Super Mario Boulder 3 / 9 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Thunder Buttress 7 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Awesome place to climb.

Became popular in the early 1980s, as one of the original climbing destinations in the NRG.Located in the north portion of the gorge it faces south-west and it 3/4mi long and averages 60 to 120 feet tall. Beauty is best known for its crack, but over the past 10 years many hard sport lines have been established here.

Ram's Head is a beautiful scenic overlook that inspires visitors that aren't climbers to do the 15 min hike(a long hike for the NRG) to get the awesome views of the Lower New River.

Regarding parking: If there are open spots where the Williams guidebook designates, park here first and be mindful that it is a small parking area (read: You don't need 6 feet of space between you and the car next to you). Parking can be found along the dirt road as well, but this option should only be taken when the designated parking is full. Short approach either way.

Getting There

Drive along the Lansing-Edmund Road from Rt. 19 past the two parking lots for Endless Wall. About 3/5 of a mile past the Nuttal Parking lot, look for the gravel Beauty Mountain Road heading right. Drive about 100 yards off the pavement, and when the road takes a hard left past a little intersection, find the obvious parking between two private drives. IMPORTANT: There is space for maybe 4-5 vehicles here, if you park smart. DO NOT block any driveways or park in the road; locals have been getting annoyed at climbers' bad parking jobs here, and vehicles have been towed and/or ticketed in the past. If there are not parking spaces, drive another 50-100 yards to the left and find scattered spaces off the road.

Walk down the road that cuts immediately behind the parking, passing a house on your right and a gate after about 100 yards. (Currently, Google Maps has a parking area for the "Headhouse Trailhead" listed right near this gate. THIS IS WRONG. Do not park here) Past the gate continue along a good gravel road that drops down into the gorge, where various cutoff paths branch off to climbing areas. The Super Mario/Tubin' Dudes area is to your right, all others to the left, designated by a brown Park Service Sign.

If you continue down this main gravel road, you'll wind up at the Nuttalburg Mine Site, one of the best-preserved mining ruins in the area. It's totally worth the trip!

86 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beauty Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 74
Journey to the Center of the Brain
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 67
You Want It, You Got It
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 86
Happy Hands
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 107
Super Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 39
Mushrooms
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 40
Quick Robin, to the Batcrack!
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 101
Burning Calves
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 34
Spiderwand
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 58
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 42
Rod Serling Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 79
Brain Tweezers
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
Chasin' the Wind
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 70
Disturbance
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 44
M.E.N.S.A.
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 29
Chunky Monkey
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Journey to the Center of th… Brain
 74
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
You Want It, You Got It Brain
 67
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Happy Hands Burning Buttress
 86
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Super Crack Thunder Buttress
 107
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Mushrooms Thunder Buttress
 39
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Quick Robin, to the Batcrack! Middle Beauty
 40
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Burning Calves Burning Buttress
 101
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Spiderwand Burning Buttress
 34
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam Burning Buttress
 58
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rod Serling Crack Burning Buttress
 42
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Brain Tweezers Brain
 79
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Chasin' the Wind Middle Beauty
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Disturbance Genocide Cave
 70
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
M.E.N.S.A. Brain
 44
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Chunky Monkey Brain
 29
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Photos

Zach Buecker
Knoxville, TN
Zach Buecker   Knoxville, TN
If the lots are full do not park on the shoulder of Lansing-Edmond Rd. Last Saturday cars were being towed. Park at another lot and hike in. Oct 27, 2015

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