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Routes in Ram's Head

Plastic Attraction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Potato Chip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sojourners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Beauty T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Steve Erskine, Hobart Parks, TA Horton 1979 FFA Pete Absolon, Chris Guenther 1983
Page Views: 1,677 total, 18/month
Shared By: camhead on Apr 5, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is a very nice finger and handcrack, with fewer individually hard moves than routes like Linear Encounters or Chasing the Wind. Start on the right of two 30 foot handcracks, up to a ledge, then pull a really cool roof on jams and jugs to get established in the wavering finger crack above. There are a couple different ways to go with different crack systems (most take the right), but both lead to the base of a mini-dihedral. Continue up the steep crack, via good stances, to an ancient pair of rusted bolts (no need to clip these, the gear is awesome and they're super terrible). Above the bolts you'll move through a couple pods, then finish on glory jugs to one of the best topouts at the NRG.

No fixed anchors; although if there were you could just BARELY lower off this with a full 70m rope. Best to belay your follower off trees at the top, then make an easy rap off the lower ground to the left.

Location

far upstream end of Beauty Mountain, about a three minute walk past the Thunder Buttress/Supercrack area.

Protection

A couple pieces of everything. Emphasis on fingers, but some larger stuff for the bottom. #4 to protect the initial roof move.

Photos

SmithVentures
Fayetteville, West Virginia
 
SmithVentures   Fayetteville, West Virginia
 
Topped it out today and rappelled from a tree. We barely got down with the 70m rope but easily could have chosen a tree closer to the edge.....but it would still be iffy for a 60 meter. Sep 27, 2017