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Routes in Burning Buttress

Blue Brains T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Broken Sling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Burning Calves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chorus Line T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
East Meets West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grace Note S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Hands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rod Serling Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruchert Motion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spiderwand T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sportster, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Steve Martin's Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stuck in Another Direction T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Will To Power, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom Howard, Doug Reed 1983
Page Views: 2,657 total · 21/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Sep 9, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Awesome, acute corner. Pulls out under a big roof at the top on great jugs. Physical, but with good body english. Large hands are helpful... the bottom 30' were sort of strenuous cupped hands for me.

Location

The obvious left-facing corner just left of Burning Calves.

Protection

A rack with extras in #3 Camalot size. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
If you have "typical" hands, meaning #2 is tight jams, then a few of these jams will be cupped. If you find the sequence and good constrictions, it's not that bad and you can lock in pretty well. If you have smaller hands, you can likely get good fists, but that orients your hand in a way that makes it harder, imo. If you have big fat ass hands, then the bottom of this route will seem like chocolate cake. Mar 29, 2018

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