Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Phil Wilt, Ed McCarthy 1983
Page Views: 6,108 total · 30/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 2, 2007
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Follow an acute, cupped hands, left facing dihedral for about 20 Ft. Traverse right to reach the arete and the hand crack. Climb the hand crack to the top. The traverse has some fun moves and the hand crack is a cruiser. If your are going to choose between Spider Wand and Wham Bam, Spider Wand has cooler moves pulling around the roof. This stays shady in the summer until about 1PM. Though the dihedral start is tough, you can get a nice cool breeze from the crack. Nothing like natural AC when you're groveling up a cupped hands corner.

Location Suggest change

Obvious inside, left-facing corner on the Burning Buttress.

Protection Suggest change

Heavy on the 3.5-2" range of cams. A smaller (#1) cam is nice for the traverse from Spider Wand to the main crack of this climb. Bolted anchor.