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Routes in Burning Buttress

Blue Brains T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Broken Sling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Burning Calves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chorus Line T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
East Meets West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grace Note S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Hands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rod Serling Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruchert Motion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spiderwand T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sportster, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Steve Martin's Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stuck in Another Direction T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Will To Power, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Phil Wilt, Ed McCarthy 1983
Page Views: 3,315 total, 27/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 2, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Follow an acute, cupped hands, left facing dihedral for about 30 Ft. Traverse right to reach the arete and the hand crack. Climb the hand crack to the top. The traverse has some fun moves and the hand crack is a cruiser. If your are going to choose between Spider Wand and Wham Bam, Spider Wand has cooler moves pulling around the roof. This stays shady in the summer until about 1PM. Though the dihedral start is tough, you can get a nice cool breeze from the crack. Nothing like natural AC when you're groveling up a cupped hands corner.

Location

Obvious inside, left-facing corner on the Burning Buttress.

Protection

Heavy on the 3.5-2" range of cams. A smaller (#1) cam is nice for the traverse from Spider Wand to the main crack of this climb. Bolted anchor.

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