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Routes in 5) Burning Buttress

Blue Brains T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Broken Sling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Burning Calves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chorus Line T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
East Meets West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grace Note S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Hands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rod Serling Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruchert Motion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spiderwand T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sportster, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Steve Martin's Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stuck in Another Direction T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Will To Power, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Andrew Barry, Mike Artz, and Stanley Todd
Page Views: 1,061 total · 11/month
Shared By: jgallagher on Sep 14, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

The first section of this climb is a very fun, well protected corner. Stems, laybacks, and the occasional use of the arete on the right will get you to the top of the corner. Clip a bolt and pull up and left (first crux) to a weird rest stance. From here commit to a relatively large runout on 5.10- climbing just left of the arete. At the top of the runout there is a jug to place bomber gear from. Then move up and left past big moves (second crux) to a hidden letter box slot. Plug a final piece of gear and make a couple more large moves between good holds and you will be at the anchor.

Location

Located a few hundred feet around the corner to the right of burning calves. Its the route just left of Chorus line

Protection

The opening corner takes small stoppers really well. Before the runout there is a 1/2" bolt. After the runout a .75 camalot is totally bomber but there is plenty of other stuff available. Make sure you save a yellow tcu or equivalent for the final letter box slot. Bolted anchor.

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