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Routes in 5) Burning Buttress

Blue Brains T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Broken Sling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Burning Calves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chorus Line T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
East Meets West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grace Note S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Hands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rod Serling Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruchert Motion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spiderwand T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sportster, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Steve Martin's Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stuck in Another Direction T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Will To Power, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Doug Reed, Tom Howard 1983
Page Views: 7,655 total · 56/month
Shared By: Darren in Vegas on Jul 31, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start by pulling into finger laybacks and locks to reach a sloped stance at a bomber hand jam. Leave the stance and enter a layback that leads to out-of-this-world finger locks and plated jugs to the anchors.  Getting into the layback is easier from one side of the crack than the other.  Figuring that out is half the fun.

Location

This climb is located on the right hand side of the Burning Buttress, it is the obvious finger sized crack.

Protection

This route eats stoppers. Small cams may also be helpful up to about mid-height. Hand-sized pieces and larger for the top. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Todd Glew
Salt Lake City, UT
Todd Glew   Salt Lake City, UT
Great route, the #1 above the roof messes with getting a jam, I laid it back because the cam took up the jam, but you can move through with good protection below the roof. Must do Nov 10, 2016
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
 
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
 
No need for a No. 1 above the roof - a very good small nut (#4 BD-ish) goes in the bottom of that seam. The route can be safely protected with gear up to .75 camalot and is loads of fun! May 29, 2018

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