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Routes in Burning Buttress

Blue Brains T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Broken Sling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Burning Calves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chorus Line T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
East Meets West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grace Note S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Hands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rod Serling Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruchert Motion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spiderwand T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sportster, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Steve Martin's Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stuck in Another Direction T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Will To Power, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mike Artz, Andrew Barry (1986)
Page Views: 1,013 total, 18/month
Shared By: D B on May 5, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This less-traveled route is fantastic. Stick clip the high first bolt and choose either the easier flake start or the crimpy direct start added by Doug Reed in '88. Climb through a couple of desperate reaches (maybe a dyno) past bolts and gear to a slightly runout section at top. Clipping the chains will make you feel like a badass!

Definitely a bit harder if you're under 5'9 (although that could be said about a lot of routes at the New)

Location

Starts at the flake around the corner from Will to Power

Protection

4 bolts, trad rack, 1 pin. Bolted anchor.

Photos

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MauryB
Boulder, CO
  5.12
MauryB   Boulder, CO
  5.12
Maybe among the best 5.12s anywhere. Dec 7, 2015