5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 6 votes
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Porter Jarrard, 1989|
|Page Views:||1,278 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Brad Leneis on Nov 19, 2018|
|Admins:||Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson|
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Flex your fingers and fire up your creativity before casting off on this multi-cruxed face-climbing testpiece. You can stick clip the very high first bolt by climbing the tree, or else boulder up the unprotected ramp (shared with Steve Martin's Face, 5.10ish) to a stance at a juggy horizontal. A nut or small cam here protects the moves to the first bolt; clip it and make a fingery traverse left. Some textbook lock-offs lead to a few good horizontals and a puzzling cruxy bit at the second bolt. Unlock the sequence to latch a hidden hold, then crimp and high-step your way to a good rest at the 4th bolt, where the real business begins.
When ready, traverse left and move up with difficulty to small but positive holds in a vague corner (or head straight up if you can.) Good temps and attentive footwork should make this move feel marginally less desperate. Head back right, clip the fifth bolt, and furrow your brow: the holds must be there, but where? Once you spot them, reach deep into your bag of NRG face-climbing tricks -- technical smearing, high stepping, precision lunging, and other chicanery will see you through to a quasi-rest under the roof. Clip the sixth bolt, reach through to a jug, and prepare for the final crux: an aggressive sequence involving (what else?) powerful crimps and precise footwork on hard-to-see holds, with the potential for big air if/when you blow it. It's in the bag once you slap a dirty jug a few feet below the chains.