NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
COVID 19 UPDATE: PLEASE FOLLOW THE ADVICE OF THE ACCESS FUND, AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB, NRAC, AND OTHERS BY NOT COMING TO THE NRG DURING THIS HEALTH CRISIS
All restaurants, lodging, and facilities are closed in the Fayetteville area. As in many rural areas, the population of Southern West Virginia is unusually vulnerable to this virus, health facilities are limited, and it is very possible that outside visitors could spread Covid-19 here. Please stay home, train, and the rock will be here when this is all passed.
Flex your fingers and fire up on your creativity before casting off on this multi-cruxed face-climbing testpiece. You can stick clip the very high first bolt by climbing the tree, or else boulder up the unprotected ramp (shared with Steve Martin's Face, 5.10ish) to a stance at a juggy horizontal. A nut or small cam here protects the moves to the first bolt; clip it and make a fingery traverse left. Some textbook lock-offs lead to a few good horizontals and a puzzling cruxy bit at the second bolt. Unlock the sequence to latch a hidden hold, then crimp and high-step your way to a good rest at the 4th bolt, where the real business begins.
When ready, traverse left and move up with difficulty to small but postiive holds in a vague corner (or head straight up if you can.) Good temps and attentive footwork should make this move feel marginally less desperate. Head back right, clip the fifth bolt, and furrow your brow: the holds must be there, but where? Once you spot them, reach deep into your bag of NRG face-climbing tricks -- technical smearing, high stepping, precision lunging, and other chicanery will see you through to a quasi-rest under the roof. Clip the sixth bolt, reach through to a jug, and prepare for the final crux: an aggressive sequence involving (what else?) powerful crimps and precise footwork on hard-to-see holds, with the potential for big air if/when you blow it. It's in the bag once you slap a dirty jug a few feet below the chains.